Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, when I bought my R33 gtst it had a stalling issue if I came up to the lights and took it out of gear or pushed the clutch in (only happened sometimes). From advice I had read, I decided it was the IAC which I preceded to clean the gunk out with carby cleaner and reinstalled.

Stalling issue fixed.

I marked the screw before removal on the IAC and set it back to this. Car idles at 900rpm warm and about 1100rpm when cold (approximately). On the sticker under the hood it says rpm should be 650rpm.

Have I set the idle too high?

The car now rev hunts on idle, it only does it sometimes. It will rev from 900->700->900 repeatedly, is this normal? How can I fix this?

Will this effect the timing on the car? I am in the process of changing the timing belt and I read on here that the idle can change the vct which changes the base timing?

I have lined all marks up with their factory position, I have ordered a timing light and plan to make 100% sure the timing is correct but the rpm changing the timing has confused me (doesn't it only usually do this at a certain rpm where it changes the camshaft phasing like vtec yo?)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465147-r33-rev-hunting-issues-timing/
Share on other sites

650rpm I find is too low for the idle. I always set mine at about 800rpm

If your IAC was indeed clogged with gunk, setting it back to the same spot will not give you the same idle as before. You will need to do a proper idle adjustment to find the correct idle speed

Adjust as follows (The main bit to look at is near the bottom of the screenshot)

IdleAdjust.jpg

In addition to this, I would reset the ECU (if you are still running stock ECU). I had an issue with idle when I installed an Atmo BOV then changed back to a plumback where the car didn't want to idle right. Messed with heaps of stuff then reset the ECU and that seemed to fix it. Easy to do, unplug battery > stand on brake pedal, turn on lights etc (basically anything to drain the residual power in the car), also wait about 15mins or so after this if you want to be completely sure > plug battery back in > Start car and let idle for a while. Forget how long it does its self learn thing. Think its about 5-10 mins

Report back after doing these things

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
    • I'd want at least $40K for mine, but thats easy to say cos I'm not selling anyway.
    • That's incorrect. We have 4 seasons, consisting of pre winter, winter, post winter and a small glimpse of hope! 
×
×
  • Create New...