Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone have R34 GTT Nismo Z-Tune Full kit?

Has anyone bought the R34 GTT (Coupe) Nismo Z-Tune Full kit from Jsai? 

http://jsai.com.au/index.php/online-store/nissan/r34-gtt/nissan-r34-gtt-nismo-z-tune-full-kit-detail

I'm interested in buying this kit but it doesn't list what's exactly in this full body kit. Does it come with front bumper, front diffuser, bonnet lip?, side skirts, and rear bumper?

And would I have to trim my GTT bonnet to let the front bumper fit on or is this made for GTT bonnets? 

And hows the quality of these? I've heard Josh's work is pretty good. Cos I just wanna send it to the paint shop and not have to f**k around with imperfections

ok, so I've gone to their GTR Z-tune full kit section:

http://jsai.com.au/index.php/online-store/nissan/r34-gtr/nissan-r34-gtr-nismo-z-tune-style-full-kit-detail

and it says it includes: front bar, front lower diffuser, side skirts (pair), rear pods (pair), and mounting bolts and screws.

so GTT will be the same right? If this is true then that sucks. Because currently I have an ugly Bomex body kit on my GTT (thanks previous owners...). So if I got the Z-tune kit then I would need to get OEM side skirts and rear bar to fit those z-tune skirts and rear pods on correct? cos I pulled the bomex side skirt away a little bit and could see that the OEM side skirt (idk what its called, ill upload a pic) is missing. And the Bomex rear bar is one piece meaning you don't attach rear pods to it.

 

sideskirt.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

If you are buying the Z-Tune style kit for a GTT, buy it from the GTT page:
http://jsai.com.au/index.php/online-store/nissan/r34-gtt/nissan-r34-gtt-nismo-z-tune-full-kit-detail

Most bits in the GTR kit will not fit your GTT, front bar won't fit due to the design differences of the GTT and GTR front ends and the rear pods are different shapes between the two. If the previous owner has removed that piece of skirt as well as the factory rear bar you will need to replace whatever is on there first before trying to fit the z tune style parts as they are designed to fit on stock GTT body panels.

As for quality, it's fantastic, I have the pods and skirts on my car and they required no modifications to fit, pics are in by build thread and the link is in my signature. 

On 9/5/2016 at 8:40 PM, Jordy32 said:

If you are buying the Z-Tune style kit for a GTT, buy it from the GTT page:
http://jsai.com.au/index.php/online-store/nissan/r34-gtt/nissan-r34-gtt-nismo-z-tune-full-kit-detail

Most bits in the GTR kit will not fit your GTT, front bar won't fit due to the design differences of the GTT and GTR front ends and the rear pods are different shapes between the two. If the previous owner has removed that piece of skirt as well as the factory rear bar you will need to replace whatever is on there first before trying to fit the z tune style parts as they are designed to fit on stock GTT body panels.

As for quality, it's fantastic, I have the pods and skirts on my car and they required no modifications to fit, pics are in by build thread and the link is in my signature. 

Thanks Jordy. I will have to look into another kit. Maybe Viva Garage, but I've seen some negative feedback from their kits not fitting properly. But I will see.

I had a look at your build thread, very nice. I'm thinking of painting and fitting it myself too (well ill get the hubby to do it haha). What grid did you sand with (before spray) and did you use a plastic primer, or just regular primer?

On 9/8/2016 at 6:31 PM, StaceyR34GTT said:

Thanks Jordy. I will have to look into another kit. Maybe Viva Garage, but I've seen some negative feedback from their kits not fitting properly. But I will see.

I had a look at your build thread, very nice. I'm thinking of painting and fitting it myself too (well ill get the hubby to do it haha). What grid did you sand with (before spray) and did you use a plastic primer, or just regular primer?

Thanks, JSAI is great, just make sure you get the GTT stuff that's all.

I honestly just rubbed it back with scotch brite and used normal primer, being fiberglass paint sticks to it pretty easy! :)

On 9/9/2016 at 4:34 PM, Jordy32 said:

Thanks, JSAI is great, just make sure you get the GTT stuff that's all.

I honestly just rubbed it back with scotch brite and used normal primer, being fiberglass paint sticks to it pretty easy! :)

Awesome. Can I ask, how much paint did you use? I'm thinking of going to supercheap and asking them to make me my color code (GV1). How many coats of primer, base coat and clear did you spray on?

Edited by StaceyR34GTT
On 9/13/2016 at 6:57 PM, StaceyR34GTT said:

Awesome. Can I ask, how much paint did you use? I'm thinking of going to supercheap and asking them to make me my color code (GV1). How many coats of primer, base coat and clear did you spray on?

Bought 2 cans of my colour code, 1 can of primer and a can of clear :)

1 and a bit coats of primer, i think 2-3 coats of red and 2 clear then buffed it back

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...