Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fuel hose leak:is it common on R33s?

So I was under the back of the car on the weekend and saw this staining on the tank which makes me think I have some kind of leak.

Just wanna know, has this happened to you? Is it literally degraded fuel lines which need replacing? or not? What size, how much length should I replace? etc

I have noticed fuel economy is poorer than I expect it should be and I suspect its related.

Thanks

 

P9040001.JPG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466661-fuel-hose-leakis-it-common-on-r33s/
Share on other sites

Mine also has a leak, Iv checked the lines coming from the pump on mine and they seamed ok, I have a feeling that it's ether the upper part of the tank or the filler hose as mine only leaks when I fill it right up.

Is yours consistently leaking?

on the outside like that, I would have thought no. But I replace most rubber hose on the car anyway, cos, it's old now.

Now I have a request of you :) can you post up, or pm, some more pics of that chassis bracing.

Both posters are most likely due to the seal around the tank lid, not the actual fuel lines themselves.  Lots of shops don't get the lid right if they have been in the tank to change to pump or inspect the level sender.

Take the cover off inside the car and undo the large plastic ring, a large bladed screwdriver/pry bar and gentle taps from a hammer will do the trick.  Then inspect the rubber seal for damage or cracks (it's probably OK), then carefully reseat it, spray some wd40 on the plastic ring and carefully screw it back on. Because it's such a large thread its easy to cross thread it which will make it seem like it is sealed properly when it isn't.

I changed the fuel pump and initially had trouble getting the rubber ring back on (bought a new one). Second time around I installed it correctly and it went on smooth. That said, getting back to the top of the tank and inspecting may be the smart option.

And with the 1000s of pics of my car, you'd think Id have more of the bracing... but here goes

P2090660.JPG

IMG_7805.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...