Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 cold start

RB_purr

By RB_purr,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

RB_purr Collaborator

RB_purr

Posted
Posted
R33 cold start

Hey guys does anyone here that runs a PFC get a delayed cold start?

By this I mean you have started your car from cold operating temp and usually cold start kicks in almost immediately but for some reason mine can take a few minutes sometimes...

This isn't a issue for me more so it's just annoying I can only assume either it's something to do with the Power FC or perhaps a dodgy cold start valve?

thoughts? 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466917-r33-cold-start/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

do you mean it idles low initially, and then the idle rises as the car starts to warm up? that's not a problem with PFCs, its a problem with your tune, or air or fuel mechanical system.

it may be running too rich until the water temp rises and pulls fuel out, is it also missing at first?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466917-r33-cold-start/#findComment-7777920
Share on other sites
RB_purr Collaborator

RB_purr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Engine idles at normal idle speed upon starting then sometimes can take a while to kick up to around 1200rpm 

i may be able to check AFR through the hand controller but try to avoid messing around with it in case something goes wrong but I'll be sure to look into it 

not gonna lie I'm pretty pissed about the tuning job that was done had to take the car back to the tuning shop because they failing to tune the AC on and AC off values in the pfc causing the car to stall upon turning the AC on ?

Cheers for the replies 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466917-r33-cold-start/#findComment-7778019
Share on other sites
breaker1845 Community Regular

breaker1845

Posted
Posted

You can't see AFR through the hand controller you need a separate wide band to do that.

If your AC is causing the car to stall at idle it's too lean. So most likely your cold start is probably alright and it has a shit tune for idle.

AC puts a fair bit of load on the engine so takes a bit of fiddling to get it to run properly.

Easy to fix if you have the equipment to do so.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466917-r33-cold-start/#findComment-7778084
Share on other sites
admS15 Grand Master

admS15

Posted
Posted

I'm pretty sure the power fc has a self tune mode for idle and ac idle. It's been a while since I've had one but from memory you leave the car idling for around 10m and then turn lights on and ley idle again, then ac on and idle again. If you google, you shall be able to find the exact instructions on how to do that. May or may not fix your issue but definitely worth a shot. You can do it yourself and it's free.


Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466917-r33-cold-start/#findComment-7778090
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

well the sad fact is that cold start tuning is a little fiddly compared to the easy stuff (full throttle power runs). Lots of tuners don't give it enough attention and I'd guess that's what happened here.  The good news is it is easily fixed by a competent tuner with a little time, and there's nothing wrong with PFC capabilities...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466917-r33-cold-start/#findComment-7778111
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...