Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I took the punt on scumtree and bought an r32 ecu chipped for rb25det.

I've received the ecu and it is chipped but checking the numbers they don't line up with an rb20det ecu and the numbers on the case don't match that of the board. So here's some pictures of what I've received...

I think the outside case is r32 gt-r but I don't think that has any relevance to what's in it.

20160930_125904.thumb.jpg.96d4c3f54f9ee220160930_125825.thumb.jpg.1f98122302632e20160930_125722.thumb.jpg.dbda09c714d110

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467038-can-anyone-help-identify-this-ecu/
Share on other sites

Contacted the seller, the outside case is irrelevant just a spare cover he had laying around.

Apparently it is an r32 rb25de ecu and has been chipped to suit an r33 gts25t, which I didn't know was even possible... Just requires the wires from the third and fourth injectors to be swapped.

Has the daughter board fitted so I guess he has no reason lie. It appears to be lacking the knock board like 25t ecu so I probably won't be using the ecu anyway.

Contacted nistune, I think he thought I was a time waster lol, I do genuinely want to get nistune on an ecu. Probably just have join the nistune forum as suggested and get some more specific knowledge on the ecu...

Well, I told you it was an RB25DE ECU.....

And yes it is chipped.....but there is no daughterboard.  All I can see is an EEPROM where the original EEPROM was.

You could quite easily buy a Nistune board to install into it.  The absence of the knock board is not something I've ever thought about before, not having looked into too many NA ECUs (ie, none!), but seeing as the knock detection on these old ECUs is usually pretty shitty, most people just end up putting the same values into both the main and knock maps to stop the ECU going soft all the time.  You're not going to be horribly handicapped by it unless Nistune just refuses to play.

But here's the other side of the coin.  Surely a suitable R32 RB20DET ECU is only 3 beers and a small reptile tank swap.  Just get another one.

refund it.. useless ECU
 

Get a proper ECU or get your stock one modified to accept a Nistune board. I can get it done cheaper than RRP or supply you the board to solder yourself - however I suggest the soldering done by Nistune themselves as the can bench test the ECU prior shipping it back.

Well, I told you it was an RB25DE ECU.....
And yes it is chipped.....but there is no daughterboard.  All I can see is an EEPROM where the original EEPROM was.
You could quite easily buy a Nistune board to install into it.  The absence of the knock board is not something I've ever thought about before, not having looked into too many NA ECUs (ie, none!), but seeing as the knock detection on these old ECUs is usually pretty shitty, most people just end up putting the same values into both the main and knock maps to stop the ECU going soft all the time.  You're not going to be horribly handicapped by it unless Nistune just refuses to play.
But here's the other side of the coin.  Surely a suitable R32 RB20DET ECU is only 3 beers and a small reptile tank swap.  Just get another one.

I wasn't doubting your advice, I also come up with the same result of rb25e before posting this thread, I just wanted opinions without my bias added. I used the wrong terminology when I said daughter board before, I thought that was the cradle thing where the chip sits which definitely has installed.

RB20det ecu's are priced like they are gold plated because as you probably know you can't chip the r33 rb25det ecu's and have to use either rb20det or z32 ecu so demand and price has gone up. These ecu's go for about 250 second hand on eBay out of Japan, 25 years old plus and could be stuffed and then you have fit nistune on top of that which starts to get into the power fc price point. That is I why I bought this ecu, I thought I was getting a bargin but poor man pays twice I guess.

yep.. but I don't get discounts on them.. will just sell as Nistune sells RRP... but you save on shipping if combine...

ECU.. no idea.. needs to be powered up.. can't just use the Internet to tell you if it works or not haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...