Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just replaced the RB20 with a 25, so now the 20 is available for sale. It's from a GTS4, but I understand a RB30 sump will fit for a RWD application.

Engine is virtually complete, and has all coil packs, a T3/T4 hybrid turbo, new cam belt and water pump in the last few 1000 kms.

$1100

WILL NOT SEPARATE ANY BITS.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46730-rb20det-melb/
Share on other sites

Not sure on kms (it was a replacement for one I detonated a piston in), but the car has 160000. I've probably done 30-40 k on it.

A 4WD auto (from the RB25DET) is available, but otherwise no gearbox.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46730-rb20det-melb/#findComment-949447
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
Im after a bare engine without the turbo, alternator, intercooler/plumbing, ecu and loom :P

Maybe someone wants to buy the turbo and i can buy the engine.

Actually, I also have an engine in 4 bits (block, head, in & ex manifolds) that needs a set of pistons.

You can have that for around $250.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46730-rb20det-melb/#findComment-1051085
Share on other sites

how much power did it make when it was last tuned?

I've already got a modified rb20 sump from my current engine ready to go so this suits me pretty well

I'm guessing it'll mate up to a RWD gearbox just fine?

are there any differences in the GTS4 version?

thanks

if you want, email me on [email protected]

I would've just emailed you but didnt see an address anywhere!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46730-rb20det-melb/#findComment-1052059
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...