Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Instrument Cluster not Working Properly ! (Tacho & Rev)

So i have this problem when i got the car, Its been through a crash before i got it

The Issue with it is that the Rev and Tacho doesn't work sometimes, for example ill be driving and the speedo and rev would be fine and then it would just both drop to 0 and the Kilometers on my dash would just disappear ! only thing that would be working is my Fuel gauge and my oil gauge !  

so i wouldnt know what speed im going or how high my rev is, and then it would just come back to life after driving for a while. Sometimes i start the car and it wouldn't even work.

So most of the time i have to have my GPS Speedo reader on my phone so i can keep track of my speed.

The fuse is fine, i hear people telling me to replace the Instrument Cluster but im worried it would do the same thing because it is working and for some stupid reason instead of my REV being at 1000RPM when its warm and stationary its always at 2000RPM, some faulty shit going on but the engine is running perfectly fine.

People said the Speed sensor might be faulty at the Ground cable, but what do people think it is PLEASE HELP !!

14680555_1307206515958739_6008200701567172495_n.jpg

Read my post in the other thread. And for future reference a fuse will either be blown or not, so if it was a fuse the issue would stay.

Read my other post. I cant be bothered typing it again :) lol

Take it out remove & clean the 3 electrical connectors replace them & check probably a bad connection by the sounds of it. Be gentle as they are just strip connectors just clamped in by the plugs.

Before replacing the cluster have you PM'd the guys above or followed what has been suggested since they're familiar with your cluster's issue?

Have you used an electrical connector spray to dissolve oxidation? Being an intermittent problem it cannot be the fuse anyway. Have you tried this cluster on the same model of a mate?

Easy way to explain it is dry solder/contacts in the PCB of the cluster, specifically the speedo. The soldering of the clusters is usually of poor quality and overtime it's easy for it to go 'dry' and the condition degrade, causing intermittent faults on the cluster. If you aren't the best with a soldering iron/electronics you can get a place to do it for you and test it for like $200 or something and restore it to new condition I guess. To sum up, the electrical circuit on the PCB which gives you the reading for your tacho has a bad connection due to dry solder/contact but the needle still works fine resulting in the obscure rpm's you see in the cluster.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...