Jump to content
SAU Community

Damaged cam cap on fresh head


BlackBox
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just got the head for my rb25det neo back from being ported and reconditioned..

I have noticed the front intake cap appears to have been damaged in transit.

It is not perfectly round where the seal sits, there is also 2 small cracks, 1 where the seal sits and another on the top surface.

I understand these caps cannot be replaced without getting the head linebored.

Would this cap be OK to reused considering there is no damage to the surface that sits on the cam?

I have emailed the company that reco and ported my head but won't get a response till next week..

If I was to try and recoupe my losses through the transport company it will likely take a long time and I may still be down $$$ to get a new head or get this repairedc9b27bd305a80b789e5cdb4cb20aba22.jpg158cd4a0c7ecb9fcf932258cd668858a.jpge35260a8a0e3d59daecf7c9318a2b4ae.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Better off not to dodgy up that damaged cap.

You can find a cap off another head and fit it without necessarily needing a line bore. It needs to be dummied up, measured and checked that the cap sits concentric with the bottom. You would want to get the engine re conditioner to do this because they will have the measuring equipment required. I've done this in the past with success after a cap mysteriously went missing. The heads would be machined with good enough consistency in the factory that a lot of caps could possibly be interchanged between heads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks mate, I'm pretty pissed off at this point just seems to be one thing after another. I will have to wait until Monday to get a response from the machining shop but hoping they had some sort of insurance on the freight.. if a cam cap cannot be sourced is having them line bored a practise that has been done before and would it be a very cost effective repair?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure on the line bore because i've never had to do it. You'll find out from the workshop once the easier options have been exhausted i guess. Put out a wanted to buy and see if people have got any old heads laying around to pinch their caps. 

Just by chance I may have one floating around in the garage at my mum's house. I'll let you know by Monday.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm running with an other cap that the one the head came with. Two trackdays and some km on the roads and no signs of wear on the cam nor the cap so you can use another cap if needded.

This cap is not extremely loaded because the timing belt is pulling the cam downward and all the efforts of the springs on the 1st cylinder are handed by the 2nd cam journal. This one is really just the support for the cam seal.

And the fact that these cracks are black inside mean that they are there since a while, you just didn't noticed them before I think.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you ream or linebore the head, or meaure it when you put the other cap on?
It was definitely not damaged before, it would have been picked up by myself or definitely by the machine shop, and there was another mark on the front of the head where it looks to have been dropped.
Regardless the head is back off and packaged up to be sent away on Monday..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nope and nope.

I fitted the cap without the cam to "check" the alignement visually but didn't measured it nor linebored it. As it sat flush with the head I just installed the cam and tested it but checked it twice since the installation (after each trackday) and nothing to report, it work as it should.

 

Do you think that the head fell off on the cam cap during transport ? The box where the head came in should show some trace of this shock. Anyway this will take time to get it repaired. Given its position I wouldn't mind using an other cam cap, doing it in the middle of the cam where the cap is taking effort from the spring is another story and may need a linebore. But this one is "replaceable" to me as it is not as critical for the cam function, it's there more for sealing purpose.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I understand what your saying about the front cap having no load on it, but its off already and the risk is too great..
I didn't really preserve the box for inspection when I unpacked the head, but I am sure it has been dropped. I got the head back 4 weeks ago but it has been sitting boxed up on the shelf waiting to be installed, If that Is enough time for the cracks to turn black.
There was no insurance on the freight and I expect I will have to cop the full cost of it myself
d9e30865ef8287888e6486260f1c5c35.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Agreed with the rest. Also at least based on my own research, there are no readily available stock or close-to-stock RB20Neo maps that you could download and use as a base were you to buy a complete standalone ECU, and the regular 20DET maps don't really work well so you'd need to take it to a tuner if you have no experience. I installed an AEM V2 on my 20Neo+T and had lots of headaches until I got it to run and idle properly but I've yet to remap it fully. You have to start building up your timing and fuel maps entirely from the ground up; even the ones for a 25 didn't work at all.
    • Got some decent progress after work yesterday and also today. Got the ECU all wired and passenger side interior all back together. Kept the wiring up nice and high to avoid people standing on it. Got the surge tank relays rewired and tidied up the pump wiring and cut a hole to bring the cables through.  I found a spare USB cable I had lying around so I decided to cut it up and see if I could use it for my CAN 1 bus. Turned out one of the pins I needed was to the shield of the cable so i cut it up and desoldered it and resoldered to the correct pins.  Had the issue with the powersteering hose hitting the A/C compressor and fan shroud. I pulled the bracket off and modified it to remove the front mounting point which now clears it all. Will keep an eye on it to see if theres any signs of fouling once it's up and running.
    • That's some good input mate. Nice.
    • So today I went well outside my comfort zone (again) to replace my valve cover gasket.  I have had a big leak over the exhaust leading to a lot of smoke and smell every time I drove it. The leak was in the rear driver's corner.  The job wasn't hard as such, just a bit finicky and time consuming.  The old gasket was rock hard and broken right where the leak was.  The leaky corner had so much sitting oil in it.  The good news to my amateur eyes was no buildup or sludge under the cover. It all looked fairly nice in there.   I haven't started it yet. I ran out of light and body when putting the coils and injector loom back in. Probs only 30min left for the morning.  I was so nervous putting the cover back on, I must have lifted it 5 times to make sure the gasket was still seated properly. God it's going to be nice to be leak free and not make other traffic light queuers think my car is about to explode.
×
×
  • Create New...