Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 11/1/2016 at 1:30 PM, jhjones said:

No

Can you confirm if the little canister on the front is the same? Is that the receiver dryer? 

I've been offered a new model condenser and Amayama says they are interchangeable but the lines look different. 

 

14907719_1154543061267730_1004867670_o.jpg

Edited by ActionDan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467514-r34-condenser/#findComment-7789517
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey Dan, did you figure this out?  I'm actually trying to source one too...

From what I've found out, i think there's actually 3 models of condenser

Nengun list two - 

92110-AA002: Nissan - Skyline - R34 GTR - BNR34 (May/98-Jan/99) - A/C Condenser

92110-AA401: Nissan - Skyline - R34 GTR - BNR34 (Jan/99~) - A/C Condenser

I believe that there is also 92110-AA400 which is what Amayama says is interchangeable... but then RHD Japan also list the two different parts as:

Part Num: 92110-AA400 : 99/1 ~ 99/4
Part Num: 92110-AA401 : 99/4 ~ 

 

So, my problem is I'm pretty sure my car was a 99/4 produced car, so I'm really not sure exactly which one i need!  I've pulled the old one out and it looks like this

https://goo.gl/photos/a3TNQ7p2mgw8WFY59

 

I'm pretty close to just ordering one through RHDJapan - pity you're not in Sydney, maybe we could have got them shipped together!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467514-r34-condenser/#findComment-7794205
Share on other sites

Get it through Amayama, they're cheaper.

I got one from Eribisu, Andrew Hawkins GTR.

It's a black one, mine was silver like yours and it went straight in.

They are all interchangeable it seems.

This condenser came with black lines from the core to the compressor and into the cabin, but they're identical to mine and a pain to swap unless you're already doing a turbo swap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467514-r34-condenser/#findComment-7794215
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
On 11/1/2016 at 9:07 AM, jhjones said:

theres two different part numbers for the GTR. Whats you chassis number?

92110-AA400- (9901-9904)

92110-AA401- (9904+)

My VIN is BNR34-004312 , Can you check for me as well?

Part No. A/C Condenser

Part No. Receiver-Driers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467514-r34-condenser/#findComment-7804728
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...