Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 GTS vs GTS-T Diff

Hi, im in dire need of answers here, iv recently bought a r32 gts (n/a) chassi with a uprated kaaz diff in it, i was wondering if this would fit in a GTS-T (turbo version)?

the backplate does look a bit different when i compair the 2, but i havent gotten a chance to dig deeper into it since the 2 diffs are still in the cars.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467868-r32-gts-vs-gts-t-diff/
Share on other sites

There's absolutely no way to answer your question.  That car is at least 23 years old and could have had any number of different diffs, diff housings and even rear subframes in it.

Come back with some more complete descriptions and/or some photos.  The reasons for this are;

GTS original;

  • Open R200 diff, in same housing as any other R32 (including GTSt).
  • 6 bolt driveshafts (3x2, same as S chassis cars)

I was going to say that the NA cars have a Non-HICAS rear subframe (which might explain why things look different at the location of the diff).  But to be 100% honest, as I give no fark for the NA cars, I simply can't remember whether they even have HICAS or not.  If they do, it's just one more reason not to buy one!
 

GTSt original;

  • VLSD (viscous) R200.  Same housing.
  • 5 bolt driveshafts
  • HICAS rear subframe, meaning that you have a HICAS steering rack or possibly a HICAS delete bar running across the back of the diff.

 

My R32 GTSt however, has an R32 diff housing with S15 helical diff internals.  Therefore it has 3x2 bolt S15 stub axles and matching 3x2 driveshafts.  I threw the entire HICAS rear subframe into the scrap metal bin and replaced it with a non-HICAS one from a Cefiro.  Therefore my car matches none of the above lists.

 

As to your KAAZ diff.....if it is a KAAZ LSD then it almost certainly was intended for a turbo, as no-one would bother putting one behind an NA.  Check the driveshafts, take teh photos, get back to us.

Thank you for your kind reply GTSboy, the reason i bought the GTS is because it has alot of aftermarket parts (apexi N1 coilovers, steering angle kit, Work, SSR rims, granador mirrors.. you name it) for a cheap price, But back on topic. :) 

My GTS-T has a stock R200 VLSD wich is starting to go bad, 5 bolt driveshafts as you said. Looking at the GTS it has 3x2 bolt pattern, will take some pictures tomorrow.

OK.

I have written many words on the interchangeability (or not!) of diffs across all these cars.  Whilst the R200 is a fairly consistent thing, there are a bunch of annoying details.  The 5 bolt stub axles in your turbo VLSD, have different spline lengths to other more normal diffs.  The open diff in the NAs has different lengths splines (I think, not 100% sure, because again I give no fark).  The aftermarket centres to replace the VLSD are usually made to accept the (unusual) spline lengths from the VLSD.  Where these manufacturers also make an LSD to go into an (originally) NA diff, they might not be the same.

Your KAAZ diff has the 3x2 bolt axles -- this could mean either that the diff is properly to suit an R32 NA....or it could mean that it was intended to go into an S13.  The S13 option is 99.99% more likely.  If I was wanting to put such a diff into an NA R32, I would go look for a complete one from an S13 because it would be the same housing and accept the same driveshafts.  The only hassle with taking diffs from completely different donor cars is that the crownwheel and pinion gearing might not be right for you.  But swapping those over is also done a lot under these circumstances.

Ah.  I was about to say that the 4 bolt rear mount is the correct one for R32.  So that at least means that the car hasn't received an S14 or R33 subframe swap.  And of course the wrecker's paint pen tells us that it's R32.

Anyway, the turbo rear cover from your driveable car will go straight on, as WMDC35 above said, offers slightly more capacity and cooling.

Mental note.  The nuts holding that diff to the subframe are all wrong.  They shouldn't be dome nuts, and the nyloc replacing the missing one isn't suitable either.  Hopefully the ones on your driveable car are correct.

  • Like 1

Cheers for the reply guys. Yeah i laughed a bit when i went under to take the picture about that nut :P. The nuts on my driveable car are all stock, diffs never been touched.

So its that simple? I just take it out and use the 3x2 driveshafts with the GTS-T backplate and im set? (yeah sounds easier than it is :P)
The 3x2 driveshafts/axels do bolt up with the turbo hubs? Should be identical from what i can see visually
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...