Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Possibly a useless response... but...

When I back off from full throttle in my work van I get a shudder as the A/C kicks back in (you can only feel it if you've gone from full throttle to clutch-in idle rpm).

No idea if thats likely to be the problem in something a little more refined like a 34 GTT ;)

Also, from my bogan days ... An incorrectly aligned tailshaft or worn uni joints will give you shudder as you back off as the slack gets taken up. Again, probably not an issue on a 34 GTT.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46795-is-this-a-problem/#findComment-949790
Share on other sites

the entire car does

has it anything to do with air going trying to go out the wrong way thru the turbo or something when i let off the accelerator?

Have you got an aftermarket BOV? If you have and it's set too tight then you'll get this shudder if it doesn't open fully.

This is what was happening with my car anyways.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46795-is-this-a-problem/#findComment-951379
Share on other sites

You shouldn't get any fluttering sound at all else the BOV is still too tight. If you loosen it a fair bit until it starts leaking under boost and then tighten it a little from there you should be fine. It should be a clean opening every time, even under bugger all boost when you're off the throttle.

Should be problem solved from there mate.

Good luck. :rolleyes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46795-is-this-a-problem/#findComment-951781
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...