Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Help with buying a V35

Hey Guys! So like many i am new to these cars. I have read many of threads on the forums to inform me of the V35 Skylines. I have currently found a 2003 V35 with 83,000kms for $10,000. The car unfortunately has no paperwork. It has a service history of the last 20,000kms the owner has owned the car. Would you guys recommend looking at the car or ruling it out completely due to having no books or service history.

Edited by james1999
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468017-help-with-buying-a-v35/
Share on other sites

My car was i ported with 78,000km just over 2 years ago. I purchased directly from an importer who was able to provide me with the de-registration papers to verify the mileage. This was important,  beacuse in Japan they register the car every two years and the km are recorded each time, so you can tell if the mileage at the time of deregistration is consistant with the last time it was registered. I was lucky as well that a workmate had a contact  in the import industry, who was based in Japan, who verified the car had never been in an accident.

Unfortunately  log books are very rare on imports and I dont even have one on mine. I had a sticker on the intake advising the last service was done at 77k kms. I didnt believe this sticker and serviced the engine, transmission and diff. Unfortunately I was wrong, as all the drained fluids were brand new, and I could have saved myself several hundred dollars on servicing costs. It could be that I purchased one of the only honest cars from Japan...

But to be fair, in the first 12 months, I had to replace the air con and power  steering belts, front  and rear brake rotors and pads. In the last 12 months I have replaced the diff bush, lower control arm bushes and swaybar end links. The car came with Tein coilovers- the front split a seal and cost me 800 to fix around 18 months ago. My rears just had the same thing happen, and I am about to send them to Fulcrum in QLDto be repaired. I still need ro replace the radial bushes, which will cost nearly $600 (as you need a 4 wheel alignment as well).

My point is that you are buying a relatively old car, and it is at the age where things start to fail. If the previous owner has fixed a lot of these issues, then go for it. If not, get an independant inspection done. Other common issues are cam sensor failure, faulty airbag codes, worn wheel bearings and power window  modules. If the mileage seems to good to be true, check for worn floor mats, steering wheels, kick plated and door handles etc as telltail signs.

 

Truth  be told, every time you buy an import, you are taking a punt. They are fantastic cars,  very underrated and very reliable. I have pwned other imports, including an R33 and R34 turbo skyline, and V35's are in a league of their own. My advice is to take your time, do your research, and make sure you buy the right car- dont just shop for price. Hope this helps.

  • Like 2
11 hours ago, camr33 said:

My car was i ported with 78,000km just over 2 years ago. I purchased directly from an importer who was able to provide me with the de-registration papers to verify the mileage. This was important,  beacuse in Japan they register the car every two years and the km are recorded each time, so you can tell if the mileage at the time of deregistration is consistant with the last time it was registered. I was lucky as well that a workmate had a contact  in the import industry, who was based in Japan, who verified the car had never been in an accident.

Unfortunately  log books are very rare on imports and I dont even have one on mine. I had a sticker on the intake advising the last service was done at 77k kms. I didnt believe this sticker and serviced the engine, transmission and diff. Unfortunately I was wrong, as all the drained fluids were brand new, and I could have saved myself several hundred dollars on servicing costs. It could be that I purchased one of the only honest cars from Japan...

But to be fair, in the first 12 months, I had to replace the air con and power  steering belts, front  and rear brake rotors and pads. In the last 12 months I have replaced the diff bush, lower control arm bushes and swaybar end links. The car came with Tein coilovers- the front split a seal and cost me 800 to fix around 18 months ago. My rears just had the same thing happen, and I am about to send them to Fulcrum in QLDto be repaired. I still need ro replace the radial bushes, which will cost nearly $600 (as you need a 4 wheel alignment as well).

My point is that you are buying a relatively old car, and it is at the age where things start to fail. If the previous owner has fixed a lot of these issues, then go for it. If not, get an independant inspection done. Other common issues are cam sensor failure, faulty airbag codes, worn wheel bearings and power window  modules. If the mileage seems to good to be true, check for worn floor mats, steering wheels, kick plated and door handles etc as telltail signs.

 

Truth  be told, every time you buy an import, you are taking a punt. They are fantastic cars,  very underrated and very reliable. I have pwned other imports, including an R33 and R34 turbo skyline, and V35's are in a league of their own. My advice is to take your time, do your research, and make sure you buy the right car- dont just shop for price. Hope this helps.

Thanks for that! I agree. i will definitely view a number of different cars and wait until something good comes up. Cheers mate! 

If you are concerned about its 'pre import' history, order a report from one of the companies that can pull the auction records from Japan, that way you can get an idea if it has had the odo wound back, was a repaired write of, etc.  eg http://www.japaneseodometercheck.com/

If you are still interested, get it checked by a mechanic familiar with these cars or 350Zs, tell them it has no service log books and you just want it checked accordingly (compression test, etc).

1 hour ago, sonicii said:

If you are concerned about its 'pre import' history, order a report from one of the companies that can pull the auction records from Japan, that way you can get an idea if it has had the odo wound back, was a repaired write of, etc.  eg http://www.japaneseodometercheck.com/

If you are still interested, get it checked by a mechanic familiar with these cars or 350Zs, tell them it has no service log books and you just want it checked accordingly (compression test, etc).

Cheers! I will definitely follow these steps! 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...