Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can you manually wind up windows on

an R33 if you have no power?

No Headlight Loom or Fuse box in engine bay available.

Door Skins are removed so easy access.

Just need to know OR be shown how to either power them up manually with battery OR wind up manually without power.

Or is it best to just get an auto electrician in?

If you take the door apart, you might be able to apply voltage to the window motor.

I don't actually know how this is done, you would need to be sure of the voltage and current limits, but once you had this info, you could isolate the circuit and power it up.

Thus giving you ability to wind your windows up without powering up the whole car. It's what I would be looking to do in this instance.

Do you have a photo to show where to hook up the wiring to?
Positive / Negative?
I knew I had to get manual power to the motor with a battery, just don't know wiring part.
Thanks for the help so far ;)

IMG_1483591547.843321.thumb.jpg.f9cfe638

Perfect. Rang my mechanic and said the same unfortunately i have two flat car batteries so only half done. Off to buy a battery charger!
Thanks guys! Will try to post a video of it once done .
[emoji846][emoji846]

DONE!
Bought a new car battery as I needed one anyway for my other car once it is fixed.
Built myself some cables using 3mm wire with terminal clips at one end and switch clips at other end so you can easily plug in/out of the switch.
IMG_1483602981.131181.jpg

Then plugged the switches in depending on which way you want the windows to go up/down.
IMG_1483603053.213813.jpgIMG_1483603067.064662.jpg
IMG_1483603086.948184.jpg

Then place the negative on the battery first and as soon as you touch the positive terminal your all systems go!
IMG_1483603153.680793.jpg



Please note this was all done on a car that has no loom or power or fuse box, hence only fix available.
Not bad for a girl [emoji846].
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Glad to hear it worked - was about 8 years ago I did that fix to mine. (Resolved with parts now)


I am having this problem with my r33 atm and we have rain forcast for tomorrow. What parts need to be replaced? My partner has a 94 model but atm is pulled apart for a re spray atm. Would i be able to use something of his untill i get the parts? Thank you in advance

First thing to test would be the above - check if putting 12v across the motor makes it move, if so, then motor is fine (which is great because getting it out and a new one in is a pain in the arse).

If that works, then look into checking the relay, it's the thing in this pic:

http://i.imgur.com/GlGcsTB.jpg

Pretty common for them to go out.

If still not, check the switch block itself, like the switches where you put the window up and down.

If it's the passenger window, note that everything needs to be plugged in on the drivers side (relay etc) for it to work.

  • Like 1

I was lucky was just that the windows were just wound down before the power was pulled. Everything in tact nothing removed.
Just a matter of removing door skins, finding the window motor connection un clicking it and follow above instructions.
Before that i just had to tape up the windows, tarp over top of car then waterproof heavy duty car cover over top. And tape the tarp down.
Car battery, 3mm wire, clips, small battery terminal clips.

First thing to test would be the above - check if putting 12v across the motor makes it move, if so, then motor is fine (which is great because getting it out and a new one in is a pain in the arse).

If that works, then look into checking the relay, it's the thing in this pic:

http://i.imgur.com/GlGcsTB.jpg

Pretty common for them to go out.

If still not, check the switch block itself, like the switches where you put the window up and down.

If it's the passenger window, note that everything needs to be plugged in on the drivers side (relay etc) for it to work.


Thank you [emoji22][emoji22][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24][emoji24]
It is my driver door. I have a 93 and my partner has a 94 model, his windows work fine, So i tried his switch(nope got nothing) tried the thing in the picture(nope got nothing). I can hear a clicking noisw when i lift the window switch up or push the window switch down.

I just had a look and the thing that u xonnected the battery to (the wiring clip) mine has some sought of grey paste looking substance. Ill get a pic and upload it tomorrow.

But thank you guys so much.

Okay clicking means your relay is fine - sounds like the motor might be toast. One of the first things I did to my 33 (back in 2006) was replace the window motor; the switch for "down" was slightly floppy, so it was stuck on, and burned out the motor.

Don't be afraid to wipe that grease off; it'd be anti-corrosion stuff, but I haven't had any on mine since I did the motor and it's fine.

IIRC the window motors themselves aren't too expensive; it's the cost of your sanity as you try to install it - though your hands are probably smaller than mine :)

  • Like 1
Okay clicking means your relay is fine - sounds like the motor might be toast. One of the first things I did to my 33 (back in 2006) was replace the window motor; the switch for "down" was slightly floppy, so it was stuck on, and burned out the motor.

Don't be afraid to wipe that grease off; it'd be anti-corrosion stuff, but I haven't had any on mine since I did the motor and it's fine.

IIRC the window motors themselves aren't too expensive; it's the cost of your sanity as you try to install it - though your hands are probably smaller than mine [emoji4]



Oh i have more than enough cuts and bruises and lost tools from throwing them. Thnak you

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...