Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For a complete novice it would take 4-5 hours if you take your time and document everything.  Get 20 zip lock bags and put all of the nuts and bolts in labelled bags.  Take heaps of photos.  It all helps when you go to re-assemble even if just for routing of hoses/wires/etc.

While you're at it (if not done prior) replace EVERY cooling system hose under the inlet manifold.  Use genuine if you can afford it.  Also replace all vaccum hoses especially the ones that run around the back of the head for the waste gate actuators.  after 20+ years they all go hard and can crack.  Being where they are located you don't find out till it's too late!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468591-intro/page/2/#findComment-7804586
Share on other sites

Oh, man, if you want a list of all the things you should replace when you have taken that much of the engine apart, it includes (but is certainly not limited to!)

  • All gaskets.  Obviously enough, but people do sometimes expect to be able to reuse turbo and dump gaskets and so on, and if they are older than a very short time, it's better to replace.
  • The heater hoses that connect the engine to the firewall.  They are well old now too.  They probably fall under the category mentioned by Shoota above.
  • The timing belt, obviously enough, unless you know that it is recently replaced.
  • The water pump.  Thermostat.  Radiator hoses if they don't feel fresh.
  • Head studs.  Prime time to put ARP ones in.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468591-intro/page/2/#findComment-7804588
Share on other sites

On 13/01/2017 at 5:32 PM, 89CAL said:

Its been a while but arent there some plugs up around that area? I assumed they were for coolant but could be wrong. Worth pulling the whole coil pack assembly off i would think if you havent already done so.

Also, its easier to undo the 5 bolts that hold the coil pack brackets in place to do plugs than to pull each individual coil pack off. If it helps :)

Cyl%20head%20plug_zpspvtu2uj0.jpg

 

That was the plug I was talking about. I think there are a few along the top of the head. Wouldnt hurt to pull all the coilpacks out and check. They may be for oil though. I'm not 100% sure

Edited by 89CAL
Extra Info
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468591-intro/page/2/#findComment-7804775
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Update: I did a compression test and a block test to see if any exhaust was in the coolant system.

Block test: Negative

Compression Results: each cylinder was done 3 times and the engine was warm. I did not have the throttle wide open during the test.

1. 160

2. 160

3. 160

4. 160

5. 160

6. 152

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468591-intro/page/2/#findComment-7806654
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

IMG_1202.JPG

So here's an update: I'm saving up money to purchase a new head from TOMEI so in the meanwhile I used JB Weld to fill the hairline crack in my head. It has been 3 weeks and not a drop of coolant has leaked from the where the hairline crack was. I was very iffy about using JB Weld on my cylinder head but to-date it has worked wonderfully.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468591-intro/page/2/#findComment-7811788
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.
    • what sort of caliper are they? If they are a slider and you gave everything a good clean, you might need to regrease the pins. My guess though is they will come good after some abuse as suggested above
    • I don't know what you should expect with an LS, but the oil pressure sounds terrible, sorry. As for the brakes, you can get fade from the pads not just the fluid, although generally that feels like a wooden block not doing anything while fluid feels like an oh shit there is no pedal so you can generally tell. What pads are you running front and rear?
    • Went over my datalogs on a whim and noticed a worrying combination of events. High RPM High Temperature Low Oil Pressure Knock Retard I bought some 10w-60 because I actually think this will be better going forward given track temp is 125C and 10-40 will actually be thinner in those environments. I know I had a leak but it's not entirely sure how much pressure loss can be attributed to that. The knock retard does correlate with all of the above. When it's not present oil pressure is higher. And by 'low' I mean at 6800 RPM the oil pressure was recorded as low as ~35psi pretty constantly. Which is obviously very not good. I'm hoping that thicker oil that ISNT LEAKING will result in a bit more pressure when I need it. Also in the last session I got a very spongy break pedal. I bled the lines as the car is on jack stand right now with the wheels off and I noticed... no air in the lines? Maybe the tiniest bit of tiny frothy bubbles for the first 0.1 seconds of bleeding the whole car? The breaks did come back to me after I backed off (and felt fine driving normally). Doesn't appear to be any leaks anywhere that I can see. Any thoughts on that?
    • Solution, run shitter tyres. Let wheel spin be your weak link 😛
×
×
  • Create New...