Jump to content
SAU Community

Need help to ID GTR R32 (any one with FAST?)

Chantank

By Chantank,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Chantank Newbie

Chantank

Posted
Posted
Need help to ID GTR R32 (any one with FAST?)

Hi,

ive been presented with a GTR R32 which the owner told me was a VSPEC I 

unforunatley the chassis plate which could have identified the car is damaged 

the VIN is BNR32- 304847

any help to confirm would be much appreciated 

thanks so much 

kris 

Aussie_Delivered_R32_GTR Veteran

Aussie_Delivered_R32_GTR

Posted
Posted

Ok........ Unfortunately it isn't a V-Spec........

 

Courtesy of http://gtr-registry.com this is what we have:

Std GT-R built June '93 in Gun Metal Grey.

Cheers,

Bob.

 

 

Capture2.JPG

  • Like 1
Chantank Newbie

Chantank

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you Bob and others so much for your kind help much appreciated 

totally a newbie in this forum my apologies if I have have asked a repeated question. 

Given it's not a Vspec but a just super super clean 1993 GTR with  57k original miles, would you think the a price for the car drops significantly? 

Not sure how much discount to the seller in percentage terms I should ask for and not be seeing as low balling him? 

I don't think the seller is aware it's not a Vspec 

thanks so much 

Aussie_Delivered_R32_GTR Veteran

Aussie_Delivered_R32_GTR

Posted
Posted

It depends on the car....... The more original it is the more the value will suffer.

When you say 57,000 original miles I presume you mean kilometres or have you already calculated the difference?

Can't see where you are as Canadian members post here on occasions too...

Generally speaking I think a 15%-20% difference is as good a number to quote.

I hope that helps.

Bob.

  • Like 1
Chantank Newbie

Chantank

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you again Bob,

im from Bangkok Thailand & stumbled acrosss this great forum while doing research for the car 

Yes it's 57K Km 

You have been most helpful 

best 

kris 

Thank you Bob and others so much for your kind help much appreciated 

totally a newbie in this forum my apologies if I have have asked a repeated question. 

Given it's not a Vspec but a just super super clean 1993 GTR with  57k original miles, would you think the a price for the car drops significantly? 

Not sure how much discount to the seller in percentage terms I should ask for and not be seeing as low balling him? 

I don't think the seller is aware it's not a Vspec 

thanks so much 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...