Group Buy Pneumatic Boost Control

[Bass Junky]

Hey ppls,

Well, I've made my kit up and it works great. Takes some tuning to get it right, but when it's right, it goes great.

Kit will come complete with two valve and check valve, as described in Autospeed articles Autospeed article

Valves will be mounted to a bracket, all you will have to do it mount the bracket and plug in your boost lines.

Price change : $130 (plus shipping which will be $15 anywhere in Australia)

I will require payment up front, and the kits should be ready in 7-10 days.

See attached pic for the example of what it will look like.

Current people in buy are

ADZMAX

SKYLINEGEOFF

CEREALKILLLER

BASS OUT

[Guest Robo's]

Ok looks like a complicated system and im sure it wouldnt look that good under the bonnet. It may work well, but so does a normal bleed valve. So what are the benefits that you have noticed?

[Bass Junky]

Okay, I noticed the following.

The thing takes a little while to set up, but once set it says set.

Tranisent boost response, ie getting on the throttle in higher gears is much better, insted of slowly building, it just goes straight up to full boost.

First gear is not all that noticeable simply because my car revs out so fast in first anyway.

But spooling is definently quicker.

BASS OUT

[Jpowys]

Possibly interested...

Do you just mount in the normal position between the presure point and actuator? I'm a bit of a dumb arse when i comes to the mechanics of the turbo and am concerned i would not know where to install it...

So your saying the advantage is that the boost comes on quicker than a normal single stage controller? I read in your first page on this that it acts more like a Electronic Controller. Is this correct?

Regards,

Jeremy

[Bass Junky]

Correct

[Bass Junky]

PRICE CHANGE. NOW $130 complete

GOT SOME BETTER QUOTES FOR THE PARTS.

Need at least 5 people though.

If we get 10, then price drops to $125 each.

BASS OUT

[adznight]

I'm in for sure. These things are great and the theory is sound. The fact you can controll how quick and how strong boost comes on is awesome. I run a standard bleed at the moment and was keen to get one of these kits just could never be farked building it

[GTRgeoff]

I've been wanting one of these for ages but can't get off my fat lazy arse. Count me in for one.

[CerealKiller]

I've been wanting one of these for ages but can't get off my fat lazy arse. Count me in for one.

ditto and in if the bracket comes with it.

[Jpowys]

Yeah i'm in too provided there are some simple instructions for simple people! that's my only concern, setting it up...

[dazsQ]

do you do installations too?

[Bass Junky]

Will come with bracket and instructions.

Installations for a slab. Maybe.

[51jay]

This is a slightly neater way to do it Later on I put it inside the cold air box

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/members/5...takes%20003.jpg

[Zahos]

This is a slightly neater way to do it Later on I put it inside the cold air box

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/members/5...takes%20003.jpg

Hey Jay,

I notice you've got the upgraded pressure regulator there. Did it make a big difference in controlling boost? was it worth the extra $$$???

Zahos

[Bass Junky]

That's a good question and something that I might investigate.

I drove to Bendigo and back today and had a lot of opportunities to play with the boost control, mainly slowing down to 80 and dropping it up to 110 (legal limit) to see what the boost does in each gear.

What I found is that the boost will spool to the set level (first valve) in first and second no problem, but then third gear, it would boost to set level and then drop right off, like the wastegate was flying open.

The boost would eventually build to the peak level, but not until 5-6k rpm.

So tonight when I get back, I removed the new second valve (peak boost valve) and replaced it with my old bleed.

Problem solved.

I'm going to investigate another valve that I'm sourcing and try it on my car first.

I hope you all appreciate this!!

BASS OUT

[GTRgeoff]

You're a legend mate

[51jay]

I think it's probably not worth the extra cash. the system works well with the one way valve ensuring that the line to the wastegate loses any contained boost pressure as soon as you take your foot off. If you'r finding that boost builds too slowly it's possible that the wastegate is starting to open too soon. This is controlled by the other valve.

I found that the system is sensitive to it's ambient temp. In the Audi it sits against the firewall on the cool side of the motor ( The origional car lives on the Gold Coast) The usual mount point in the Skyline is in a place that can get hot. Thats why I moved it inside the airbox

The reason I finally removed it was I couldn't keep the same boost in all gears, eg 1.2Bar in 1 and 2, 1.4Bar in 3 and up to 1.7 bar in 4th + an E-Boost came up at a good price.

I never had a problem with slow boost buildup or falling off. I was on full boost by 3100rpm in any gear and at least 60%boost by 2700 rpm. It is a good system....but you need to really understand how it works and be prepared to fiddle to get it spot on.

[Bass Junky]

After fitting the old Bleed valve, I now have the impression of the steering wheel on my forehead, as boost cut happened heaps last night.

Can't get it right.

I did have a little restrictor in the system before the first valve as one was fitted in front of the old bleed valve.

I have now pulled that out, but not had a chance yet to go for a drive.

I have to go out this morning at some stage so I'll have another play and let you know.

[adznight]

Interesting!

[someonestolecc]

Can anyone explain this to me like im 7yrs old?

As I understand it a boost controller lets pressure out so the wastegate diaphram doesn't open and allows the turbz to deliver a higher pressure of boost . i.e. "boosted" car.

This looks like it has 2 valves? I read the autospeed article 3 times and still don't understand the difference.

Could someone explain this to me please?

:headspin: