Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Its finished! Sort of... I have yet to take the car on a proper test drive but from initial impressions its all connected up and runs nicely.

After making a lot of silly mistakes, and only finished it last weekend (but theres till a bit more to do on the car non turbo related).

There was a lot of smoke on initial start up. Both out of exhaust (due to old blown turbo oil residue), and from engine bay turbo area, which I was freaking out over. I then realized its due to the wd40 is sprayed all over the exhaust bolts nuts etc burning off. It had a "new turbo smell" but it eventually cleared after only 3 or 4 min up the car warmed up and it sounded clean and sounded like it boosted great. I have yet to take it for a test drive hopefully will this weekend.

Made many mistakes and a lot of things had to be customly piped, new hoses, silicone adapters etc brackets,

I also forgot a single washer on one side of the coolant pipe on the turbo, facing the engine, and we thought we are all done hooked it all back piping everything, and while filling the radiator it was just pissing on the floor without realizing it. Lost all my expensive coolant etc. Then I forgot the heat exhaust manifold shield so if it had to come again and lots of things like that.

 

 

Edited by sonicz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...