Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

As the title reads, how do u reckon u would go getting 250rwkw with the stock airbox??

Does anyone have any before and after dyno results??experiences??thoughts??

Best I have seen was 225 rwkw with a Pipercross panel filter in the standard airbox on an R34 GTT. Even that required changing the pipework from the AFM to the turbo as it kept getting sucked closed, that was with the standard air filter though. :)

I'm not sure how different the GTR's airbox is compared to the GTT's amd others... but I chose to remove the HKS Pods, and re-fit the Factory GTR airbox with a KN Filter.. We still got around the 310-320kw @rear wheels, and to add to that we are still using the factory dump pipes off the turbo and stock GTR cat??

I'd be interested on what you think SK about that, coz I know you think otherwise.

:)

Easy. :) IMO one thing I think people tend to forget when looking at the standard components of the later model Skylines is they have been building a similar design for how long now? You can imagine how much R&D has gone into the RB26 and RB25 over the years. Look at cars like the Mines GTR with it's standard air box. That car is one mean machine!

I'm not sure how different the GTR's airbox is compared to the GTT's amd others... but I chose to remove the HKS Pods, and re-fit the Factory GTR airbox with a KN Filter.. We still got around the 310-320kw @rear wheels, and to add to that we are still using the factory dump pipes off the turbo and stock GTR cat??

I'd be interested on what you think SK about that, coz I know you think otherwise.

:D

I don't know what you mean mesh :angel:, the standard GTR cat is good thing, much better than a GTST or compliance cat. I have 2 cars using the stock airbox but with Pipercross panel filters. :) I could argue with you about why the Pipercross filters are better than the K&N, if you need a :fight!:

So that just leaves dumps, as you know I prefer split dumps, but not the HKS shorty style, I prefer mine with longer separation. Not because they give more max power, but because I get better average power out of them. But that's just my opinion. :)

I could argue with you about why the Pipercross filters are better than the K&N

Hi Sk, I like the K&N product. Whats with these Pipercross Filters that gets you so warm inside? :confused: Do you think that the oil used on the k&n filter stuffs the afm? I'm interested to know if you've seen any back to back comparisons with a lightly oiled k&n vs paper element with respect to the amount of air they can flow?

Hi Sk, I like the K&N product. Whats with these Pipercross Filters that gets you so warm inside? :confused: Do you think that the oil used on the k&n filter stuffs the afm? I'm interested to know if you've seen any back to back comparisons with a lightly oiled k&n vs paper element with respect to the amount of air they can flow?

Hi Ben, the advantage the Pipercross design has is the multiple density and thus the vastly greater amount of surface area to hold particles (dust, dirt, grit etc). The differing densities enable the filter to hold different size particles in the most appicable density foam and still let the air flow around them. The single density filters suffer from blockage very quikly in comparison, one big dirt particle completely blocks off that spot on the filter.

Single density means that all particles (regardless of their size) must be trapped on the surface of the filter. The Pipercros design allows the larger particles to be trapped in the least dense foam, the next sized particles in the lessor dense and the very fine in the highest density.

I have heard all the counter arguements, stuff like the convoluted design means that there is more surface area. But I have examined enough panel filters to know that the troughs do all the work, and the rest of the convolutes block each other from the airflow. Next time you pull out your K&N have a look where all the dirt is.

The Pipercross filter oil has flame retardent in its composition, something that others could learn from.

As for back to back tests, I have done a few. When the filters are all brand new they flow pretty much the same, but after a few thousand k's the Pirercross design shits on them all, it looses nothing.

So that's why I prefer them :)

Thanks SK - as always a thorough explanation. So the pipercross is foam, using similar principals to the two stage foam filters used on trailbikes etc Looks like i'll be recharging the K&N quite frequently then - if its starts to disintergrate i've always got that 1,000,000 km warranty! lol. - Do you think that the BelRay oil as used in trailbikes would do the trick when i recharge or stick with the K&N Oil? I have a large bottle of the BelRay on the shelf.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...