Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, hopefully I can get some help on this issue.

 

Car is a r32 gtr and has recently developed a clicking sound coming from what sounds like the front left hand side. The sound is most evident when going from a stand still forward to reverse and vice versa. Can also hear it slightly when braking hard. It will click a few times upon take off then stop and will only come back when going forward to reverse or vice versa again. The sound sounds like 2 metal parts.

 

Things that have been replaced are:

 

-whole left cv shaft

-lower outer ball joint

-pads & rotors

-sway bar link

-switched front coilovers around

-replaced outer tie rod

 

Could it be caused by the calipers? Inner ball joint? Loose castor arm(I have adjustable castor arms)

 

Any help would greatly be appreciated as it’s embarrassing and annoying!

 

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472494-clicking-sound-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

ah - re-reading you say pads and rotors.

Sometimes the long pins that hold the retaining clip in place are not secured (knocked in properly) and work loose. Then the retaining clip can make a clicking sound as the rotor moves. Just a thought.

how old are you castor arms, and are they rose jointed or poly bush? worn rose joints would be a likely source of clicking when changing direction. 
Is everything else stock?


Not too sure how old the castor arms are -was on the car when I brought it. Yep they are rose jointed. The clicking only comes on when initially changing direction? I’ll probably check the rose joint next. How would you go about checking it?

Everything else is pretty much stock or standard except the coilovers. And I haven’t done any mods lately too before the sounds appeared

Just lift the wheel off the ground, put some nice solid stands under it and then move the wheel back and forward. It may require a reasonable (but not crazy) amount of force. 

Rose joints wear out quickly on road cars, and instead of moving freely either jam or get loose and rattly. They are really designed for race use and regular replacement.  If it is the castor rods you'd be better replacing them with standard arms and adjustable bushes, or adjustable arms with bushes.

Could still be any (every) other joint but they are a good place to start

ah - re-reading you say pads and rotors. Sometimes the long pins that hold the retaining clip in place are not secured (knocked in properly) and work loose. Then the retaining clip can make a clicking sound as the rotor moves. Just a thought.

 

 

Yeah initially I thought it was rotor/pad related but after changing them both the clicking is still there.

 

I’ll double check the retaining clips

 

Thanks

 

Just lift the wheel off the ground, put some nice solid stands under it and then move the wheel back and forward. It may require a reasonable (but not crazy) amount of force. 
Rose joints wear out quickly on road cars, and instead of moving freely either jam or get loose and rattly. They are really designed for race use and regular replacement.  If it is the castor rods you'd be better replacing them with standard arms and adjustable bushes, or adjustable arms with bushes.
Could still be any (every) other joint but they are a good place to start


Ok I’ll give that a try. I’ve jacked it up and rotated the wheel back and forth to try get the sound to come up but only appears when the weight of the car is on it. I haven’t tried moving the wheel forwards and back.

I’ll look to replace the castor arms next as most of the ‘main’ culprit parts have been changed lol

Is there anything else to look out for while the car will be jacked up?

Cheers

Upper control arms might have buggered bushes - enough to move a little and click.

FWIW, I disagree with Duncan about rose joints on castor rods.  I've got some Tein ones in my car.  Been in for a few years now, so must have done >30000km on road.  They are still fine.  That makes them serviceable enough for road use, to my mind anyway.  And they work much better than any of the alternatives (for the task they are supposed to do).

Upper control arms might have buggered bushes - enough to move a little and click.
FWIW, I disagree with Duncan about rose joints on castor rods.  I've got some Tein ones in my car.  Been in for a few years now, so must have done >30000km on road.  They are still fine.  That makes them serviceable enough for road use, to my mind anyway.  And they work much better than any of the alternatives (for the task they are supposed to do).



Haven’t had a proper look at the upper control arm bushes but they were replaced last year. Would you get constant clicking if it were the bushes? Because the click I get only occurs the first few meters of moving in that direction and sometimes when hard braking

I’ve pretty much driven 30k+ too with these rose jointed castor rods so might be worth having a good look at them anyway

Usually when a major bush has a major problem, the noises will often occur when you change the direction of the load.  If that happen in a vertical direction, then it will click/clunk on bumps. If the problem is in a horizontal direction, then it will click or clunk when changing from forward to reverse, or swinging the wheel through large steering angles.  But there's no rules here.  You can end up with a lot of different variattions.

Another possible suspect in the front suspension is the upper bearing in the spindle.  They sometimes fail noisy.

Usually when a major bush has a major problem, the noises will often occur when you change the direction of the load.  If that happen in a vertical direction, then it will click/clunk on bumps. If the problem is in a horizontal direction, then it will click or clunk when changing from forward to reverse, or swinging the wheel through large steering angles.  But there's no rules here.  You can end up with a lot of different variattions.
Another possible suspect in the front suspension is the upper bearing in the spindle.  They sometimes fail noisy.


Thanks, i will check it out and share any updates

Got underneath the car and was able to isolate the sound! I basically held it a 12 and 6 o clock and if I pulled/pushed enough it would make the click. Checked the usual suspension components and made sure none were loose/torn

Hopefully someone one can help me out!

5E7C5E04-E3A2-468E-8A2D-BC6C6DF32392.MOV

Are you kidding?  If you're pushing that wheel from 6 & 12 and there is as much movement as I can see, then the whole bloody wheel looks like it's just about ready to fall off.  If it were me, I wouldn't drive it.  At the very least you need to get someone else to push the wheel while you put your head under it and listen.  Use a piece of dowel or similar as a stethoscope.  But I'm damn sure you should be able to see what's f**ked from about 50 feet away!

Are you kidding?  If you're pushing that wheel from 6 & 12 and there is as much movement as I can see, then the whole bloody wheel looks like it's just about ready to fall off.  If it were me, I wouldn't drive it.  At the very least you need to get someone else to push the wheel while you put your head under it and listen.  Use a piece of dowel or similar as a stethoscope.  But I'm damn sure you should be able to see what's f**ked from about 50 feet away!



Sorry I think the placement of the phone makes it look like 12 and 6 o clock movement but the movement is more from the left and right (turning) wheel movement. I was using some force so was wriggling the wheel from all directions until the 12 and 6 position created the sound

I was trying to reproduce the clicking sound and didn’t even notice you could see anything lol

But yeah thought someone here might recognise the sound

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done.  
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
×
×
  • Create New...