Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Gents

As the car is warmed up not only coolant temp but also oil temp, say around 80-90  degrees the car starts to have a misfire.  At first its just a hiccup at idle but then progressively gets worst as I keep driving and the engine warms up more.  From idle to 1500 rpm the response is terribly.  It's extremely hard to take off from a light, and the whole drive line shudders as I attempt to get the car moving but as soon as 1600 rpm rolls around it goes back to absolute normal with no problems all the way WOT and mind you this only happens when the oil temps are at operating temps avg 85 degrees.  Does this seem like an igniter issue?  or coil pack issue.  Whilst this happened, I had the car on the driveway with the engine running and I sprayed freeze spray directly onto  the igniter with no change.  From 1600rpm and up theres no issue, regardless of coolant and oil temp.  My intent is to go r34 gtr smart coils and get the wiring specialites adapter harness and be done with it,  just hope this helps.  Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472608-r32-gtr-idle-misfire-when-hot/
Share on other sites

haltech plug in.  has been tuned for 2 years, this is the first time it has given me trouble.  

single turbo

maf deleted running onboard map sensor

gm iat

 

update= the car now is unable to rev past 2000rpm, just struggles to rise to 2000rpm, sounds like anti-lag(double hecked its not activated).  

can a failing ignition system change symptoms so erratically?

 

update: Started again this morning no faults revved to 5-6000 no issue, ran for about 10 mins, I shut it down.  Went inside to have a bite and then come back out to start it and the problem re-appears.  Seems something gets heat soaked and it struggles to get to 1750 rpm from idle, then as it approaqches 1750rpm, it will clean right up and rev no problem.  During the stumbling, the afr gets really lean basically offscale.  If it was a vacuum leak would the engine rpm be higher?  I see no decrease of vacuum on my aem boost gauge, it sits at a steady 20in/hg. 

  • 3 months later...

hey guys

 

update, so in went new coils and no joy, same symptom when hot.  I opened up the cas and found a whole bunch of rust dust inside, bearing seems shot.  blast of air, back on car and it seems good now.  no more bucking or loss of power.  no my other question is how do i rebuild a hitachi cas(r32/r33 style.  not the black one on the r34)?  i pulled off the cover which mounts to the cas bracket but the guts of it dont seem to want to conme off even after removing the screws.  any ideas guys?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...