Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 GTR

So recently my oil temp has started being funny slowly rising when on the freewsy sitting on about 3000rpm but if im cruising along doing 2000rpm or sitting at idle the temp slowly comes back down.

Engine had a full rebuild only just over 5000km ago.

I've changed oil filter and oil, thermostat, flushed radiator and have bled the cooling system but hasnt changed anything.

Ive let my car idle in my garage for 45minutes and all it did was get to the normal temps then stay there.

I wouldn't think my HG would be the problem as its all still new without having any thrashing. Nitto oil pump and a genuine nissan water pump were put on when built.

It was 2 years ago the engine was built and i cant exactly remember but i think they told me i would need to come back in at 5000km to have the head re tentioned down. Does this sound right with arp head studs? If so this could be my problem?.

Cheers for any input.

If your hot oil is from hot coolant is from exhaust gases in the coolant is from not retensioning your studs......then you'll be wanting to give yourself a slap.

Get the coolant tested for CO2 contamination to confirm/eliminate and get the head studs tweaked.  Then see if it keeps getting hot.  Keep in mind that the coolant temperature gauge will stay in the middle across a wide range of temperature so will mask if it is getting hot too.

If your hot oil is from hot coolant is from exhaust gases in the coolant is from not retensioning your studs......then you'll be wanting to give yourself a slap.
Get the coolant tested for CO2 contamination to confirm/eliminate and get the head studs tweaked.  Then see if it keeps getting hot.  Keep in mind that the coolant temperature gauge will stay in the middle across a wide range of temperature so will mask if it is getting hot too.
Thanks thats what i was thinking but looking at water temp on my pfc hand control it's staying at about 80 whilst my oil temp rises past that.
But is that an actual thing for the studs to need to be re tentioned after some time? Because I've heard that once they are torqued down that should be it..
  • 4 months later...
  • 2 months later...

If it's happening at 3000RPM but not 2000 then a few things spring to mind based on higher pressures exerted at higher RPM:

- Oil pump not circulating enough or circulation blocked somehow

- Engine leaning out / running hot at mid-high RPM; fuel system; tune etc.

- Cooling system not efficient enough (test that water temp sensor too, in case it incorrectly reads 80 all the time)

- Head lifting under pressure; a compression test may not show anything but still worth doing given how easy it is

- How much oil is in the sump? Enough to cool at low RPM, not at high?

- Oil temp sensor not functioning properly?

- Head gasket leak/blow issues into the cooling channels tend to show themselves first at idle with no airflow and, as they progress, eventually appear during highway driving when even heaps of airflow isn't enough to cool the engine. Yours doesn't happen at idle which says to me head could be lifting under the extra pressure.

- Possible too that some sort of weird piston blowby only rears its head at higher RPM?

Have you checked the PCV valve?

I had this issue on a MR2 and a Celica and the cause was a blocked PCV valve. My exhaust was also smoking slightly whitish blue sometimes when I planted it because of this. I couldn't see it myself but I had a few friends following say so.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...