Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1989 BNR32 - 116XXX KM

$36,000

Hi all,
Time has come for me to move on from my pride and joy of 8 years. Over that time i have worked hard to get her to the point she is today, alas family has gotten in the way and i would like someone with the passion i have to take over. Car has been rebuilt, with full receipts for work done, and has had an interior overhaul. 
All work done up until end 2016 done by ultimate tunes in Canberra, Tune is done by JEM in Sydney. Car is running map sensors, and is ready to be flex tuned. Car was flex tuned previously but i lost my local E85 shop so last retune i put it back to 98 (tuned to 300KW). Details are as follows:

Engine:
Nitto Pistons and Beam Rods
Nitto Oil Pump
Nitto Gasket kit
Tomei Type B cams, Springs, and Cam Gears
ARP Studs
Mishimoto Al Rad
Garrett 2860-7's
Custom front pipes with HKS Super Dragger exhaust (Stock dumps)
HKS hardpipe kit
HKS Kansai strut bar
HKS AFM delete pipes
ARC Super induction box
High octane catch can with braided lines
Triple plate clutch (can't remember the brand sorry)

ECU:
Haltech Platinum Pro
Haltech 3 Port Can Hub
Haltech Wideband controller
Haltech Flex Fuel Sensor
Haltech Io Expander
Haltech Boost Solenoid
Haltech 3 Bar Map Sensor

Exterior:
Resprayed a mix of gunmetal with blue
Bee*R B5 racing wheels with 595 RSR Semis
Fibreglass bonnet

Interior:
Nismo seat cover replacements
Nismo steering wheel with horn
Nismo floor mats
Nismo pedal set
Nismo boost gauge
Nismo rear vision cover
Nismo fashion lighter
Nismo gear knob
Defi din gauge set
Nissan option foot rest
Nissan option center console with cup holders

All in all she is in good shape for a car her age, with the following issues present:
Small amount of rust bottom side of firewall
Small oil leak coming from rear turbo
Throttlebody is slightly out of adjustment, recommend adjusting before going for a heap more power, safely turned around at the moment
gearbox Syncs are getting tired

Everything stated comes with the car, along with spares i have (original steering wheel etc). Slightly neg, can neg further if you want me to start removing nismo items. Car doesn't have rego, but can put more on if need be.

happy to discuss further/provide more info if needed. 

Engine bay.jpg

GTr detail 2.jpg

GTR detail.jpg

GTR dyno.png

GTR interior 3.jpg

Interior 2.jpg

Interior.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Sad 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473425-1989-bnr32/
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, RBN1 said:

Time has come eh? Lots spent on this car. 

Make sure to put it on the various FB GTR pages. They go nuts for ones like this.


Good luck.

Cheers man

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473425-1989-bnr32/#findComment-7868915
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...