Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I have been reading a lot on international websites and SAU. But I have yet to come across a method that works with programming our remote on our 350gt.

So I would like to know if anyone in AU/NZ has managed to programme a key remote? There are programmers out there that do this for a living so I dont see how this is not achievable by ourselves. People from the USA seem to be able to programme their keys without any problem but I have not seen anyone here in AU/NZ that manage to do this ourselves.

Also one thing I am not so sure of as I dont have any numbers on my Nissan key, is the part number. Are they compatible with the KBRASTU15 replacement key that is so common on ebay? What is the frequency on our remote?

Thanks for hearing me out. Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473721-nissan-remote-key-programming-how/
Share on other sites

i think if you were to take that key number to a locksmith with the right equipment they would be able to cut the key according to the factory specs, even if you have a dud key fob(electronic bit) but the blade of the key is intact even if it's worn they would be able to cut the key to factory standards, then its just a matter of the programming sequence, I know the sequence in the attached file worked for my series 2 Stagea WGNC34, but I'm not sure about other later model stuff

CCI08042018.jpg

Mine does enter the programming mode (doors unlocked) so I believe this method is still the same for my year. What I am getting to is that when I pressed the button on my new key fob my car does not respond. This is the same remote that the americans use which worked on theirs (all the videos I watched on youtube has  the flashing lights, not doors unlock) and I am now wondering if that particular remote would work on our japanese import cars.

Does anyone on here knows what frequency is our remote? As in V35 350gt. And the factory remotes FCC ID?

Sorry can't help you out any further, just got those instructions with the keys I purchased from ebay, and took 4or5 goes to get the timing /sequence right for them to work, you have to be spot on or it'll do half of the process  and have to start again. 

Could also try trawling some of the US or European forums especially the UK ones, those guys ask squiliions of questions 

  • 5 months later...
  • 4 years later...

Nissan vehicles are equipped with a specific type of key called a “smart key” or “intelligent key.” These keys do not require physical contact with the vehicle or manual programming. To program a new Nissan remote key, insert the key into the ignition and turn it to the “On” position. Push the brake pedal while pressing the “Lock” and “Unlock” buttons on the remote control simultaneously. Hold the buttons until the hazard lights flash twice, indicating the key has been successfully programmed. I hope that helps :)

@ttcw Not sure where you are located. If your in Sydney, I recently had to replace a broken/lost key fob for my 370GT. The guy I mentioned in my post linked below, was what I think is reasonably priced, and supplied the fobs (ie main plus a spare) and programmed them both on the spot using a portable tablet, with software specific for programming keys for multiple manufacturers.

Of course, give the DIY a try first to maybe save a few dollars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   anyone know where I can pick one of these up for a reasonable price? I just resprayed my rear trunk due to fuel stain and my new muse spat install.    added a photo for some content 🤣👍   thanks 
    • Consider a 35 too...
    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 😃
    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
×
×
  • Create New...