Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello there,

I'm in the market for a first car, im looking at a 180SX or a Silvia with about 10k to spend, when i go to inspect possible cars, what should i look out for, and what pitfalls should i be weary of ?

When i do get my 180/s13 i want to do some basic mods etc, etc, is it better if i buy a stockie, or if i get one that's allreaddy modded ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47400-buyer-beware/
Share on other sites

Theres a thread that tells you about stuff you should look for if you search - i think its a sticky. It's for skylines but it will apply to a lot of cars.

As for 180's and s13's it's pretty safe to say (in my mind anyway) that they are all thrashed.

Be aware of that when you're buying them so you know what you may need to change/replace/recon/service.

I've never owned a sil or 180 so I can't tell you specifically about them but my friend put one through hell and it took everything he gave it - respect to the sil and respect to the SR20.

Other than that I have no idea - good luck.

oh . .. finally if you find a 180/s13 that's not about to blow up for that price let me know, all the good ones i've seen are more than that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47400-buyer-beware/#findComment-957837
Share on other sites

GET IT CHECKED OUT BY A MECHANIC YOU TRUST BEFORE BUYING REGARDLESS OF HOW MUCH EXTRA THAT COSTS (we took the list of things that needed to be fixed back to our dealer and got them fixed before we took the car home, it saved us quite a bit of money)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47400-buyer-beware/#findComment-958239
Share on other sites

Theres more demand for 180SX's over Silvias, and more demand means higher prices.

As the others said, beware of what you buy. A friend bought a 1989 180SX last year for $9000 locally (CA18DET/manual) and thought he got a bargain. It turned out to be one of the biggest shitters in existance, and now requires massive amounts of money to fix it up. Things from the floor pan rusting and bending if you put much pressure on it, to engine being stuffed and making a measly 59kw on a dyno. It also had stuffed/bent suspension from where its been slid up a gutter. It quite literally had been taken to hell and back.

Which made me just think, make sure you check all the panels for correct fitment and under the car for rust, as they are quite a popular 'drift' car, and id bet a majority have seen a few gutters in their lifetime and arnt quite straight. Make sure you take any youre interested in for a drive, and if the steering wheel shakes at any speed, its a good sign something is bent somewhere.

You get what you pay for, if you skimp on the car, you will get burned. If you pay a few thousand extra to pick up a top quality example, you will love and enjoy it for many years to come.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47400-buyer-beware/#findComment-959159
Share on other sites

rev happy very much so, the CA18 i believe is a better car for drifting, im buying a 180sx with a SR20 in the coming months as i had to sell my other two cars haha (lost my licence for 6 months)......find a nice sileighty or a one'via, they r great cars

in regards to wat to look for, a mechanic that works on these types of cars, test drive, make sure the body is straight, check for damage...also sus the owner out... does he/she keep the interior clean?? ex. inbetween all the lil gaps becoz a person that keeps their interior clean i usually find are pretty festideous (excuse any spelling errors) about the whole car ingeneral (just from my past experience).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47400-buyer-beware/#findComment-961067
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...