Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day chaps,

quick question - my diff is whining and getting a little clunky, looking to replace it. I can get a good stock diff for $250, or thinking of going to a mechanical LSD

Thought about getting a GTR diff, but too hard for me as it invloves swapping alot of parts. Does anyone know anywhere that has one available for R32 GTSt?

Also how do you tell between a aftermarket mech. LSD and a stocker? A few wreckers I have spoken too don't know how to tell the differance, and i am thinking if I can go and have a look, I may be able to pick up a bargain

Regards, Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47429-aftermarket-lsd-question/
Share on other sites

Best way i can tell you about it is to look here : www.cusco.co.jp/english/e_lsd.html

I think from memory Mist (another user on this forum) had a Nismo Pro lsd 2 way kit (brand new in box, with gaskets and oil) I think the kit allowed adjustment for the 2 way as well....i was going to grab it, but lack of funds (have to get turbo & new manifold)

He was letting it go for $1850? i think....damn great buy if you ask me for a new kit already here in Aussie.

Steve did explain before...i think its the shape of cross shaft???...might have to do a search myself :(

Steves explanation

"In the diff centre, there is a key that will be different shapes. It works by pushing plates apart, that causes the clutches to engage. The 1 way will be like a triangle, 1.5 way will be like 2 triangles, but one side will be truncated, and a 2 way will be like two triangles with their bases together (like a square on its side)"
Sorry Steve if i butchered your quote :(

I pulled that of the UAS site, its a modded 33 diff, but if someone could tell if it looked stock or aftermarket it would be a huge help

Hows the diff in your car? is it noisy?

yeah mine is dying slowly, open wheels a bit no and then, crunchy in reverse and clunky in forward gears, so looking for a upgrade

Anyone know if a 33 GTS25T diff would bolt in?

the 33 diff is different ratio, 4.11 vs 4.3x in the 32. Not sure if they would bolt in, but the 33 diff also fits S14 if that is any indication. If its mechanical, you can remove the centre and fit it anyways.

The diff in the photo looks pretty stock to me, have a look on the cusco site for diagrams of how mechanical diffs work.

If the diff is still in its housing, try turning both ends. A viscous diff, you will be able to turn each side of the output ends in opposite direction, a mechanical diff - not a hope in hell. Its easier if its still on the car, then you just jack up one side and try to turn the wheel. If the wheel turns (once again, with some resistance) it is not mechanical, if its almost impossible to turn, but when it does it clunks (slips a little then holds again), most likely a mechanical diff.

Best way though is to pull the back cover off and have a look for the 'keyway' sort of thing :( as per the cusco site. Definately do this if you think you may have found a mechanical diff.

hope that helps

cheers mate, will have a look at a few and see if I can spot one that is not a stockie :(

So say the diff is on the ground, by itself, and I twist each side (where the axles bolt up) in the oposite direction, the stock lsd will allow this quite easily, while a mech. lsd will not allow you to do this?

yeah the viscus std diff will be tight but you will depending on how worn it is be able to twist eash side independenly and smooth, a mechanical will be rough and tight.

33 diff wont fit in 32 but all centres are interchangable.

S13 diffs bolt in and if you find one with a 6 bolt(3 pairs) flange for the driveshafts then you can use s13 shafts which are the smae lange and trade yours in

you could get your stock one and shim it up.

it'll work much the same.

Thats what im getting done to my tired (stock) LSD.

It'll come up close to what a mech would be like, but much cheaper

SOLD...only tell me the name of the place where you are getting it done so i can drop my car over to the free spinning piece of crap re-shimmed :)

That one in the pic looks like a viscous out of a 33, which I understand are unrepairable from my enquiries. I'm just hoping mine is helical so I can get away with getting it shimmed. Post price if anyone gets it done.

you could get your stock one and shim it up.

it'll work much the same.

Thats what im getting done to my tired (stock) LSD.

It'll come up close to what a mech would be like, but much cheaper

I have heard many people mention this, but have never heard of anyone getting it done. If you do, please let all of us know!!!!!!!1 :)

Cheers for all of the replys

Chris

S13 diffs bolt in and if you find one with a 6 bolt(3 pairs) flange for the driveshafts then you can use s13 shafts which are the smae lange and trade yours in

Clint, how sure are you that a S13 diff will bolt in? They are much easier to come across than a aftermarket diff for a R32! So if I find a S13 mech. diff, I'd just need the drive shafts form a S13, and then it would all bolt in?

Cheers, Chris

SOLD...only tell me the name of the place where you are getting it done so i can drop my car over to the free spinning piece of crap re-shimmed :(

Im getting mine done while my car is in for a rebuild.

Ben @ Racepace is doing mine, i've got another 2nd hand LSD and he is just gonna use what he can to shim it right up.

Im sure there are many other places that can do the came thing surely

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...