R34 GT-T Shuts off when I put into Reverse or Drive

[34Red]

Hi guys

I got a issue with my R34 GT-Turbo 1998, Semi Automatic for Months now but manged..

Regardless when the car is cold or warmed up, when I shift into Reverse or Drive.. the rpm drops and will stall. It starts back up again perfectly fine.

Now the only way I can manage to bypass this is to give it a little gas right after I shift into gear so the revs won't drop and stall out on me. 

And also when I come to a full stop at a red light for example, the car revs would drop and sometimes stall too.  The only way I can stop this is manually use the TipTronic and shift it into Gear 1 before I fully get to a Stop and it won't stall out.

I forgot to mention most importantly that the A/T light flashes before I start the car up. it flashes 16 times.

Now it also gets WORSE, lets say I attempted to "Drift" which I never have even done, but lets say I wanted to, for example. When I get to a Roundabout and start turning while giving abit of gas, the revs somehow holds back and the A/T light then comes on after I turn and the car will start going into LIMP Mode. So I would have to shut it off and start the car back up again and it runs fine and the A/T light is gone. The only way I can bypass this that when I get to a corner or a sharp turn.., I can't accelerate while turning at the same time all else the A/t Light comes back on, As I straighten the wheel back straight the Revs pick up again as if the car didn't allow me to go fast on a corner... I can't even have a joy ride anymore  My power Steering fluid is full too so hmmm

Now I just got my Throttle Position Sensor changed and cleaned the Throttle, I have also checked for any vacuum leaks carefully but nothing. I changed my Coil packs/spark plugs recently too, Cleaned my O2 Sensor, Cleaned the Air flow meter and checked for any leaks, cleaned the Idler Air Valve, Checked my Automatic fluid and its nice and red and on Full (also got it serviced for new transmission filter and fluid changed) tried a lot but still no good

Now I can only think of Solenoids A & B or some sort of Sensor   

The R34 GT-T features : Stock BOV, Aftermarket Pod Filter, 3" Turbo dump pipe, Stock Intercooler, Splitfire Coils, Ngk Iridium Spark plugs.

I'm thinking of getting rid of it after spending so much on it but still no mechanic can diagnose this for me.

What do you guys think ? Thanks !

[GTSBoy]

I'd say your first thing to do would be to take it to a mechanic who has a decent scan tool and find out what the codes are and mean.

I would be concerned that you thought that you could or should "clean" the O2 sensor.  I wonder how you would do such a thing.

My very first thought was that your idle air valve is sticky or borked in some way.  How did you clean it?  Total disassemble and clean with throttle body cleaner?  Or a quick spray and pray?

Did you adjust the TPS back to the absolute correct position when the new one went on?  It should read ~0.45v at closed throttle.

[34Red]

Thanks for the concern, no engine light comes on and all I did with the 02 sensor was pulled it out and left it in a small bucket with petrol, after that I cleaned it with a paper towel but still same problem.
With the Idle air valve I took it apart and gave it a throttle body spray.
The TPS was installed by a professional mechanic and yes it’s adjusted correctly but still stalling so the TPS is not the problem.

[34Red]

I’m going to try and replace most of the hoses in case it’s brittle and might have some leak especially around the BOV and see how that goes.
Just you let you guys know that this problem started occurring when I got my radiator changed to a ALLOY so it was a bit bigger then the original factory one. After the radiator changed, there was a Transmission hose going from the radiator to the transmission cooler and that was bent to the point where it burst and started leaking and I was stranded and had to tow it home because the gears stoped working. Found out the hose was bent so much it crippled and didn’t allow the flow of the fluid to pass properly, (right angle bend). After I replaced it and made it more straight so it can flow better, It’s still had the same problem. That’s when I started trying to diagnose deeper by changing coils, afm and etc

[GTSBoy]

There are anywhere up to 5 CUs in the car that will give you codes.  Absence of the engine light on the dashboard just means that the ECU is not upset.  The TCU (which happens to be inside the ECU , but is still a separately addressable CU on the car's bus), the ABS, TCS and HICAS CUs are all also on the bus and can give you fault codes.  Given that your problem appears to be trans related, it would appear wise to interrogate the trans computer, wouldn't it?

Advice stands.

Your O2 sensor is now f**ked, by the way.

[34Red]

I’m going to replace the O2 sensor and get a new one. I’ll give that a shot !

[34Red]

Now that you mention the 02 sensor I’m hoping it’s that because I’m only getting about 200kms with full tank which is really bad

[GTSBoy]

That will cause the poor consumption, but it shouldn't cause any of the other effects.

[34Red]

So I replaced my O2 Sensor and the old one turned black. But even then, my car still stalls when I shift into reverse or drive like you said

I booked my car in 2 weeks at a different mechanic, one that specialises diagnoses. I’ll keep everyone up to date

[34Red]

So it turned out to be the Transmission Solenoid A & B.

 

That’s going to cost me :S‬

[Deathkitteh]

On 25/07/2018 at 9:36 PM, 34Red said:

So it turned out to be the Transmission Solenoid A & B.

 

That’s going to cost me :S‬

Did you ever get the problem resolved?

[Watermouse]

1 hour ago, Deathkitteh said:

Did you ever get the problem resolved?

That fella hasn’t accessed SAU since January 2019 mate

[DraftySquash]

HA!!! Having the same issue so dropped the car off at Chasers Performance to get the codes. 
I could never give it gas while turning. And it stalled at lights for the first time on my way to the mechanic today!