Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

 I am building a track car with my son R33 and we have a problem with the door and boot locks,

The key will not turn in any of the door locks or the boot (did the day before)

 the doors and boot open from the inside and the internal central lock works both lock and unlock.

I have had a new key cut in case of a wear issue but that made no difference.

I have checked all linkages and all appear to be in place.

So in a nutshell locks mechanically appear to work and all ok when operated from inside the car ignition works (same key).

Key will not open any lock from outside.

Any ideas for me to check?

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474550-r33-all-locks-jammed/
Share on other sites

Take a door card off and with the door open use a screw driver to put the door catch in the "shut" position and observe what happens when you operate the locks. Try with the battery disconnected to see if the central locking is playing up.

Thanks Kiwi 

I tried that this morning made no difference the additional info is the key wont turn the barrels when connected, I removed the link to one of the barrels and the key turned, put the link back on and problem remains, no key unlock or locking function.

Checked the mechanical movements around the door latches as well with the door cards off, all appear to be working correctly if using inside door latch and boot release also ignition works with the key,

Is there a lockout in the central locking that could jam on ? that would stop a key from working on all locks?

Fixed it myself,

found the barrels were seized up,

fixed by removing them from the doors and taking them apart, cleaning and silicon lubricant. rebuilt and replaced in the doors once the barrels rotated freely... working like new now.

Coincidence all three went at the same time

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...