Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

37 minutes ago, Jimmy TRYNC said:

Hi there guys just wondering what oil is every one is using in there R200 gtr/gtst diffs mechanical not active 

No idea what everyone uses but I like Nismo competition gear oil 2189E 75W90 ...  or slightly cheaper but almost (but not quite) the same spec is Motul competition gear oil 75W90 (both oils made by Motul) although other people use cheaper oils presumably with ok results.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474603-diff-oil-r200/#findComment-7882115
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Jimmy TRYNC said:

Yea but gtr is 1.5 way standard the constant  velocity joints are much bigger and the spline that goes in to hubs is much larger 

Let's just say that you need to be making stupid power before the time, effort and cost required to put a GTR diff into a GTSt, just to get a small improvement in strength on those parts becomes worth it.  The 5 bolt stuff is very strong.

You can put a 1.5 way mech centre into the GTSt diff without having to change all that other stuff.  And then, on top of that, the GTR stock mech centre is usually swapped out by people looking for a more capable LSD anyway, as it is not very aggressive.

As to what oil.....so long as you're not talking about viscous GTSt diffs (which do NOT require LSD oil) then pretty much any LSD oil will do.  But more particularly, different brands of mechanical diff work better with different oils.  Nismo send the diff to you with Nismo oil, Cusco send Cusco oil, Kaaz ditto, etc etc.  Some of those even work better with different oils than what the maker recommends (ie, maybe less LSD action, but nicer manners).  So, the important thing is to pick your diff first, then ask the oil question.

And the best mechanical diff for a street car (assuming we're talking about a streeter here) is a helical, and they don't need LSD oil either.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474603-diff-oil-r200/#findComment-7882124
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The team at OBD2 Australia are pretty good, shoot them an email and ask them. I've dealt with them before for work stuff. I'd be shocked if it didn't work, so long as Consult can activate the ABS. But you might need to use KLine for it which would be the stopper, as I don't think that piece does KLine comms.
    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
×
×
  • Create New...