Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Greetings, after a long absence, comes time to seek some advice from those more experienced than myself. Must say that I do peruse the site from time to time to keep informed. Anyway, my issue is this; For some time now, especially when travelling on a particularly smooth road surface, and more so at a slow speed, I have noticed a faint thump thump coming from the front part of the car On the rougher road surfaces it was not an issue. It is a great car, used on special occasions, had never done anything that I thought would flat spot a tyre. The car handled exceptionally well, and the issue never really bothered me. The front tyres on the car have done about 20k kms, are of Chinese origin, still have 2 or 3 mms left above the wear bars on them and have never given me doubt in their use. They are 225 40 18's, so a slightly lower profile than std.  Looking at the tyres through the wheel arch, I have often thought how well they have served and never noticed any abnormality. I do the servicing of the car, am under it - on my back, every 5k kms and have never noticed anything wrong - this episode makes me wonder. About 20k kms ago, I replaced the lower control arm bushes with Superpro ones, all seems ok there still. Following that, the alignment data worksheet seems to indicate that the measured settings were close to those listed on the G35 Service Data sheet. 

So, that is the setting, now to the present. The car did the near 2k km return trip to the Bathurst 12hr last weekend. Wasn't the fastest on the road, but it did some spirited driving  when conditions suited, like over Falls Creek. On the concrete section of the Hume, between Gundagai and Albury,  the thump thump became more prominent. A slight tendency to veer to the left also developed.

With the car home, thought it was now time for an investigation. Ha! still never doubted the tyres, took them off the car now up on blocks, and set them aside. Was overcast yesterday, a bit dark, getting late in the day, so I didn't bother getting too involved with looking for issues. Happened to move a tyre out of the way to do something else, that tyre being the worse of the two, and got a BIG shock.

I have seen tyres in the past that wear off on edges, but just can't understand how the wear pattern on these tyres originated. The acute wear section is inclined to be more down the side a bit, and on the better tyre of the two, the wear is smooth as though it has been seared with a hot flat surface. Yet then, in some smaller sections the wear is not a smooth flat surface, but looks like it has been scolloped out with a tool like that to get icecream out. The other tyre - wow! I should hang that one up as a momento.

There are known issues with these cars scrubbing out the inside of the fronts because of negative camber and there being no adjustment remedy. e.g. http://forums.redflagdeals.com/negative-camber-g35-559280/      That the car has 40's instead of 45's on it could also contribute. But accepting that, it seems to me that the tyres have been rubbing on something, yet there is no indication under the car that such has been happening. Rubbing on road surface?? I just can't get the angles to work

 

IMG_163510_4.jpg

IMG__174207_5.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476014-any-suspension-gurus-out-there/
Share on other sites

Thanks for the response. As a first step in getting this sorted, the car is booked in for  suspension inspection next Tuesday. Yeah, but it seems my problems don't end there. Down the right hand side of the pic with the most damaged tyre, there is evidence of a flat spot on the rim. Ha!, when I posted the pic, thought that it was just a camera illusion, but no, it's real. Have done a bit of research, watched some youtubes'; those that were repaired didn't come up 100%, and the general consensus seemed to be don't do it, - hmmm? Thinking a pipe bender with a couple of curved formers at either end??

So, by now there have been a few hrs spent searching the market for rims. That has included going back through the for sale section here for the last 12 months. Some 17's around, but not so 18's. I'm content with those that are on the car at present and don't necessarily want to upgrade.

Hello,,,,    anyone wanting to sell a pair of Rays 6 rectangular spoke OEM rims for a V35, mine are marked inside: Nissan Front,  18 x 8JJ / 30

I guess in that regard I would be grateful, just in case I have to go with a full set, to know why the rim would be marked "Front"? if anyone can wise me up please.  

  • 3 weeks later...

Will tie this one up. First, the damaged rim: ha!, repair it with a pipe bender? well that was a naive statement if ever there was one. Shane at Ace Alloys in Mordialloc, looked after me. The rim was in a bad way and distorted across the whole width, and the prognosis not good. He put it on a spinner and it appeared way out, I can't explain why I didn't detect it in the handling of the car? They have a press that doesn't use heat, and scored a winner, as did I. Spent more hrs researching, and the inbuilt negative camber in the car, and others, is recognized as a cause of premature tyre wear in the region that mine went.  Going down to 40's from 45's even aggravates this problem. I've stayed with the 40's because of vanity, but am trying Goodyear Directional 5's on the front. Will see what happens, but they can be swapped from wheel to wheel, so there is the potential to get wear from both sides of the tyre. Have Eagle Asymmetrics to go on the rear.  The car's suspension components tested out ok. Am now all but out of adjustment for the rear axle. The front toe ins were out, esp on the right side. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...