Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Exhaust Temp , A/F MIX gauges.
Intake temp sensors pre cooler and post cooler gauges.
Map.
Knock voltage
Atmospheric temp
G force
Just about any parrameter you want can be measured and detailed depending on your wallet.
Best to do all temps (oil ,water ,exahust), oil pressure , A/F , IAT, map knock.

On 2/21/2019 at 7:35 AM, GTSBoy said:

Take the sandwich plate off and work out which way the oil flows.  Out of the engine, into one part of the plate or the other, out through some hole, back through the other, etc etc.

good call!

Maybe I mis-read the diagrams, or I don't have a Greddy sandwich plate, but during the track session today, checking the temperature on the outside of the braided lines going to/from the cooler showed a 8-10 degree difference - but the line I thought was coming from the engine was the cooler line. I checked it numerous times just to be sure - a consistent 8-10 degree difference.

I'll put the temp sensor into the hot side - but I'll go back through all the diagrams to see how I got it wrong...based on the temperature readings the blank plug is on the correct side to tap for the new sensor (1/8 NPT tap on it's way via eBay).

cheers

Mike

Edited by mikel
typo

I would say yes.  The central port is the return to the engine, which means the outer oil path facing the camera is dirty oil into filter.  The thermostat bypass is from the right hand port back into that outer path.  Otherwise, when the thermostat is working (hot), the oil will go out that side and come back on the left to the dirty side of the filter.  So your conclusion looks correct.

  • Like 1

thanks GTSBoy - that lines up with my "updated" view of how the sandwich plate works and the temperature of the lines to/from the cooler...

My original understanding was incorrect.

Just waiting for my 1/8 NPT tap to arrive to get the sensor installed.

cheers

Mike

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...