Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1998 Nissan Skyline R34 GT non turbo 4-door, Auto, 82,000 kms, White, $15,700 plus tyres and ORC's

what about that for a first car it looks mad R34 only like $18000 on the road

1998 Nissan Skyline R34 GT 2.5 litre non turbo 4-door sedan

Tiptronic automatic

81,980 kms

White

Dual airbags

ABS brakes

All power options and airconditioning

Central locking

Stock standard

Condition notes: Slight wear on steering wheel. Seat is a little dirty. Front bumper and LHR bumper / quarter panel are scuffed and may require some minor paintwork. Otherwise in excellent condition inside and out. High resolution pictures are available.

its with http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/au/st...sp?StockID=2343

I'd want to confirm that it can actually be complied before getting too ahead of yourself. Looks alright but is very cheap for that price...

Check out insurance too because many insurance companies won't differentiate between an NA and Turbo Skyline pricewise.

But would be a very nice ride.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...