Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, 

 

I think my blitz is leaking and have seen many people saying they are known for leaking 

 

I am saying this as i get random boost around 14 psi and sometime it goes to 16-17 but other times stays at 14-15

 

prior to tunning had the same problem as it was reaching 6 psi where it should have been 9 psi . even worse it was on 1-3 psi if the car was off road for 2-3 month which lead me to believe blow off valve internals needed a bit of drive ...

 

anyway I could be wrong and to test it, I am buying a new BOV,. greddy 

 

i have looked at the mounting plates and it seems to be the same for blitz and greddy( see below).

 

is there a standard between the BOV so they have have same aparture / hole size so I could use my blitz valve ?

 

also would you use gasket maker for the connection between pipe and dump valve ?

 

blitz

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blow-Off-Valve-Adapter-Fits-Blitz-BOV-For-Nissan-Skyline-R32-R33-R34-GTST-GTT-BK/273349837940?epid=24021312519&hash=item3fa4eb8474:g:yBUAAOSwnEtbRbzU

 

greddy

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401678163818?ViewItem=&item=401678163818

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476620-blow-off-valve-plate/
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, drifter17a said:

can't as haven't got anything to block it off in addition to potentially damaging turbo due to pressure!

You don't have a coke can?

I'll ignore the turbo pressure damage concern for the most part, but I will guarantee doing it for a test won't cause an issue. 

changed to greddy and i was very happy as boost built to 17 psi but that was short lived as it soon dropped to 15.4 psi again as soon as car was hot.

 

need to speak to tuner

 

i spoke he is using air temp to adjust fuel and boost so don't have too much boost when hot

Where is your boost reference? Inadequate IC setups will often lead to boost not being maintained after heat soak.

However, if you were to take your boost reference post IC you kind of masks those symptoms, another reason factory Nissan engineers took a boost reference post IC as well.

5 hours ago, drifter17a said:

What is ic? Intercooler?

 

mine is on intake manifold 

yep, kinda common reduction
I do not understand what's the fuss about it. just put ur blow off in front of the throttle and that's it, everything will work perfectly

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...