Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys as the title states my cars been struggling to start first thing in the morning. I just had my car retuned on united e85 and since then it takes around 5-6 cranks in the morning and even when im leaving work in the arvo (if its still quite cool) when it was tuned on caltex eflex i had no dramas but with united e85 having a higher ethanol content its obviously struggling with the cold starts. Im running a power fc with the usual bolt on mods. Heres a pic of my crank settings...just wondering if i can adjust these and what i should adjust them to for an easier cold start. Cheers!20190605_055436.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477301-e85-cold-start-dramas/
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Just an update on my starting issues. I ended up getting a brand new oem cas and took it back to my tuner to make sure it was installed correctly. It starts up first go every time now...even if i havent driven the car in a few weeks. Still runs a bit sluggish on a cold start, but once it reaches normal operating temp its perfect, so it must require some fine tuning for cold running.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...