Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R34 GTT 1998, engine light code 14 speed sensor. Came out of no where. Randomly stiff and light power steering. Speedo works so if i've read correctly the speed sensor inputs cluster first and the cluster gives information to the ecu. Nissan consult on a laptop saw no speed sensor input from the ecu. Is the speed sensor bad or is there something else wrong.

Wiring diagram for the whole speed sensor to ecu?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477583-r34-code-14/
Share on other sites

If speedo is working then speed sensor is working. +/- 1V sawtooth (AC) signal generated by the speed sensor is translated into 0-5v square wave PWM signal at the speedo head and transmitted on the Consult bus for all the CUs to read. if the ECU can't see it then the TCU and the HCU won't be able to see it either. Would suggest that either head has a fault or the wiring is broken in some way. Look at the wiring diagrams for ANY Skyline to see how that signal typically gets around, then chase its wiring around with a multimeter. If you want to look for the signal itself, you will need an oscilloscope of some description.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477583-r34-code-14/#findComment-7909693
Share on other sites

speedo, traction control and hicas works, looking for a new cluster atm. When I get a new one and the ecu still doesnt see the input something else is at fault. I also checked for continuity in the wire that goes from the cluster to ecu and it was fine. Could it have gotten grounded some where and the ecu fried something in itself?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477583-r34-code-14/#findComment-7909815
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...