Occasional Stalling After Manual Conversion

[Tosseef]

Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas?

[Ben C34]

The ecu expects there to be an auto, but there's not.

You need to sort that out

[Tosseef]

Ah. So do I wire up the neutral switch?

[GTSBoy]

You should wired up everything that should have been wired up to a manual. Neutral switch, clutch switch. Make sure the IACV is working, etc etc.

[Tosseef]

Clutch switch? Come again? ?

Neutral switch, the guide on here says not to connect to the auto ECU which I still have. But others say to connect it. IACV was cleaned when it was still auto. Never had issues with it. This has only started after the conversion. No wiring other than the inhibitor switch was touched.

[GTSBoy]

Just now, Tosseef said:

Clutch switch? Come again? ?

Why are you laughing. The clutch switch and the neutral switch are used by (manual) ECUs to help inform them of what you are doing. This is particularly the case where you are rolling along with a non-zero speed in either neutral or in gear with the clutch depressed. The ECU will keep the idle speed higher, to make it easier to clutch out and get moving again. Lack of these inputs tends to be a significant contributor to the idle-drop-and-stall that often happens on half arsed conversions.

Both these are hooked up on my auto-man converted R32. Was true using the original RB20 (auto) ECU and is also true using the RB25Neo (auto) ECU that is in it now. I can see the signals for them come on in Nistune.

[daneprostamobrown]

30 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Why are you laughing. The clutch switch and the neutral switch are used by (manual) ECUs to help inform them of what you are doing. This is particularly the case where you are rolling along with a non-zero speed in either neutral or in gear with the clutch depressed. The ECU will keep the idle speed higher, to make it easier to clutch out and get moving again. Lack of these inputs tends to be a significant contributor to the idle-drop-and-stall that often happens on half arsed conversions.

Both these are hooked up on my auto-man converted R32. Was true using the original RB20 (auto) ECU and is also true using the RB25Neo (auto) ECU that is in it now. I can see the signals for them come on in Nistune.

My s2 c34 rs4s type b Definitly did not have a factory clutch switch. 

[Tosseef]

Neither does my S1.

[GTSBoy]

f**king Stageas.

[Ben C34]

12 minutes ago, Tosseef said:

Neither does my S1.

Which was an auto?

are you using an auto or manual ecu?

can guarantee the calibration is different for idle amongst other things

[Tosseef]

Still has the auto ECU.

[Ben C34]

43 minutes ago, Tosseef said:

Still has the auto ECU.

 

That's the problem

[Tosseef]

Update on this. Turned out to be a badly adjusted clutch rod.

[GTSBoy]

How low was your bloody pedal!?

[Tosseef]

I'm using an R33 GT-R pedal which needed modification to fit. When bolted flush to the firewall it also depressed the rod which gave me clutch slip on idle. So I put 10mm spacers behind the pedal and wound the adjuster rod out bit by bit till I got a full clutch engagement and disengagement. Car's been fine ever since. Although the revs do spike when the clutch is depressed. So will be wiring the neutral switch back in.