Jump to content
SAU Community

Can no longer move the Auto Shift knob on R32 GSTS

Strexx
 Share

Recommended Posts

Strexx Enthusiast

Strexx

Posted
Posted

So I just bought the car as a project - Have driven it successfully a couple of times but now I cannot move the auto shift stick out of Park - Foot on the brake turn the steering wheel and still no go. Quick Google search would imply the issue is electrical - Could I assume a connection/plug is faulty or I may have popped a fuse? Can you give me any advice how I may got the car to drive again or identify where the fault may be?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Download the R32 GTR service manual and look for the GTS4 auto wiring in the wiring diagrams (will be the same as what you have). Look for the shift interlock and start tracking it down from there.

There is a manual release on these things, I think. Don't remember where it is though.

Time and excuse enough for a manual conversion if you ask me!

Strexx Enthusiast

Strexx

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It seems that none of the fuses have popped... A bit more digging around and it seems that there are two contact closure switches atop of the brake pedal, one for brake light the other for the shift lock.. However when I got under to take a look - I found the Shift Lock Release Button hidden out of sight on the lower back of the shift knob. So now at least I can drive the car - I'll get a torch under the dash tomorrow. Thanks

gem_ute Newbie

gem_ute

Posted
Posted

Had a similar issue on my 34. There is small black plastic clip in things that the plunger of the switch contacts with that break fall out. (There are a number of posts about brake lights staying on - same issue) I had both fail within a week and i just put 2x 1/4 inch zenith bolts in as the head thickness of the bolt just happened to be the same as the plastic thing.

Might not be the same issue but worth a look. 

  • 1 month later...
Strexx Enthusiast

Strexx

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Still have this problem - But I have found out more info.  So to recap, the shift lock was not allowing me to move the Tbar - this was very frustrating as I had to use the unlock button every time.  Then I left the car for about two weeks whilst I replaced the steering rack and when I lowered it down to the ground the TBar worked - In fact it worked for about 3 days then it locked again....It remained locked but today I jumped in the car and it remained unlocked all day - been pushing it back and forth and it will not fault.  I did jump under the dash and took a look and fiddled with the switch above the brake pedal (Mind you my brake light are fine) and found nothing.. So the fault remains intermittent - Can anybody tell me what it possibly could be that is causing this issue. Doing my head in!

  • 3 weeks later...
Strexx Enthusiast

Strexx

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update - Replaced the switch on the brake pedal and the t-bar remained unlocked - I could hear a clicking sound at t-bar but that sound has since gone and the T-Bar remains locked up again - This is doing my head in - any ideas?

Strexx Enthusiast

Strexx

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I know I've posted this before but I'm struggling to get a solution - I have an intermittent fault whereby the T-Bar shift remains locked and the only way to allow me to place it in a gear is to use the front manually shift lock button.  Sometimes it works fine and sometimes it doesn't.  I've replaced the switch atop of the brake pedal and thought that that fixed it but it did not. After replacing that switch I remember hearing a click on the solenoid at the T-Bar but that has since stopped and the T-Bar remains locked continuously.

I've checked the fuses and nothing has blown.

Today I opened it all up and did not find the solenoid stuck (See photo (with hook)) so I simply unscrewed it from the mechanism and taped it aside. Now it never locks - it can't. So I made the assumption that this particular solenoid must be broken and I should go buy a replacement. I'll try to buy both solenoid (3470 Select lock - Shift lock) & switch (34980 Switch Assembly - Park Position) - This seemed the most appropriate way forward. However, whilst search through E-Bay tonight I came across a Shift Lock (2854001U02) and I'm trying to understand where this fits in and the likely hood that this item may also be part of the problem. Where is it located?

So although the issue is resolved it not a true fix - and that's what I'm aiming to achieve.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

20191125_094742.thumb.jpg.e3548abfb26c0c4d0e86a3760355c045.jpg1603916885_DSC_7343Medium_zpstbendzff.jpg.24000fb86178c4a0d2d3849beeb2f0b2.jpg

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)

The shift lock is the control box and beeper. It sits above your left knee/shin.

As soon as you f**k off the auto trans and convert to manual you can unplug it, like I did.

Have you considered spraying the inside of the solenoid with some brake-kleen or similar solvent, followed by some silicone or teflon spray lube?

Edited by GTSBoy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...