Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

400HP at the fly or at the wheels?

400HP at the fly is ~300rwHP and is not all that much power. You don't need a very big turbo. A moderate highflow from Hypergear is probably the best way to do this (cheap and effective).

400rwHP is ~300rwkW is GTX3076 territory or any of the newer turbos the same size. There are also Hypergear options in this size range, but I think if you're wanting to make that much power you're going to want it to have the best response and you're not going to be afraid to spend money and you're going to have to spend money on everything else anyway (fuel system, ignition system, clutch, diff, brakes, the list goes on).

If it were me, I'd be thinking EFR7163 or the other one about the same size, 7064 I think. Very interesting, but expensive turbos capable of ~550 engine HP. The 7163 is on the smaller B1 frame. The 7064 is on the larger B2 frame and has a funky mixed flow turbine.

The new Garrett G series turbos have things in the same size range, like the G30-550. Also expensive.

Any/all of these will usually f**k you around in that they don't often have a T3 flange option.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478733-turbo/#findComment-7916109
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...