Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi so on my silvia s15 I noticed the rocker arm snapped on cylinder 2 which had 125 PSI, others had 135-138, 145, and 145, and weird thing is I didn't notice this when taking the valve cover off. Only when I tried to put it back on and noticed a piece stuck in the right top corner (no idea how it got there) and also I noticed my timing belt has no guide is this ok? Here is picture of broken rocker arm, and surprisingly the head isn't damaged.

What do you think?

20191112_190517.jpg

Rockers snap fairly frequently on SR20's that have had a beating. There's a few designs for better rocker arms that are less prone to doing this. That said when I've seen SR20's that have had broken rockers, they have basically 0 compression in the cylinder thats affected and effectively are driving around on 3cyl.

If your car was driving around mostly okay, and only concerned about the comp results then this is likely to be something that broke in the past.. got replaced, and the bit was never removed ?

If you were driving around on 3cyl, chasing the misfire and found a broken rocker then yes that will cause it....

12 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Rockers snap fairly frequently on SR20's that have had a beating. There's a few designs for better rocker arms that are less prone to doing this. That said when I've seen SR20's that have had broken rockers, they have basically 0 compression in the cylinder thats affected and effectively are driving around on 3cyl.

If your car was driving around mostly okay, and only concerned about the comp results then this is likely to be something that broke in the past.. got replaced, and the bit was never removed ?

If you were driving around on 3cyl, chasing the misfire and found a broken rocker then yes that will cause it....

Thanks. I noticed my rocker arm has a certain number. Do I need to find that replacement or I can buy any rocker arm? Are they all the same size?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...