Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, have been looking at buying an r34 and just falling short in terms of budget. one has come up that is local and very cheap. The only problem is that it is not starting. It has new coils and the battery was taken out to be charged. Power is going to everything besides starter. I have attached pics in case someone can suggest somethings to help it get started. I don't really know too much about cars. Hopefully it is an easy fix. Just trying to inform myself before going out to look at it tomorrow.

 

 

bb22.jpg

bb2.jpg

Edited by shadako2
pics

Are the injectors pulsing? Are they letting out fuel when they do?

Are the coils firing? Are the spark plugs sparking when they do?

If these are not, then either the fuel supply or the power supply to the injectors is down, or the same for the coils (minus the fuel flow).

If neither of these are working you are probably down an important sensor, like the CAS, or the AFM.

If these are all working then all your important sensors are probably good.

If you have all that shit working, then the next question might be, does it have compression.

This is the method for working out why it doesn't start. You also need to be able to touch the car. It's very hard from here.

Oh, hang on....earlier, you said "power is going to everything except starter". Does that mean it won't crank? Then look at my first reply, which includes rotation in the list of necessities. And now you have to work out why it won't crank. Basic automotive fault finding at its finest. Hop to it.

ok, I'm going to look at the car tomorrow. The thing with the battery happened to me before, the charger says charging but it gets drained or there is something internally wrong with the battery. Also realised that it's hard to diagnose, maybe the pics could be more to direct me where to look to tomorrow.

Edited by shadako2

If you go there and fix it and it starts won't they want more for it?

I would be more worried about the purple wipers.

 

 

In all seriousness buying a non runner is a bold move, especially if you aren't experienced and are going to rely on internet diagnosis to move forwards.

14 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

If you go there and fix it and it starts won't they want more for it?

I would be more worried about the purple wipers.

 

 

In all seriousness buying a non runner is a bold move, especially if you aren't experienced and are going to rely on internet diagnosis to move forwards.

yeah that makes sense... had a similar situation with an s13 silvia in 2009. Whenever it went over certain bumps like rail tracks, the engine would shut off. It may have have had the wrong ignition leads that were not gripping the points enough. Swapped with $30 pair and the problem went away. Car was $3000 rego'd from memory, for a 1995 q's.

1 minute ago, GTSBoy said:

You might have paid too much.

Funny thing was after I bought it, I went to fill up and the girl at the servo said she paid 500 for hers. The one I bought had performance tyres + okay mags, aftermarket fenders etc.

well, car seemed good, not too much fluid marks, eg around head gasket. Could hear the starter turning. I wanted to jump start with my car battery but the guy said his 12v jump starter would be the same, not too sure about that. The jumpstarter was fairly depleted as well. Also had subwoofer wiring coming off the positive terminal, so I am not sure if that has a drain if it is not connected to anything. The aircon and everything besides the sunroof worked.

Edited by shadako2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...