Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

First up, Anyone want to comment on suggested mechanics in south West Sydney (I live in camden) that are good with V36? 

Seems I may have big problems with my v36. Loud knocking sounds at just over 1k rpm. Nothing at idle. Was hoping an oil change would help, nope. Was hoping it was the VVEL but not convinced as its quite loud knocking, almost like a bottom end sound but seems higher in the engine. Although it's gone at idle. Not sure how or if disconnecting the VVEL solenoid would help diagnose its not that.

Gut feeling is its a rod end and this is going to be expensive. 

No engine lights, no oil pressure lights, just the noise. I admit I let the engine oil cha he go for too long. It has now been changed. Nothing in the oil at least, other than being black.

Anyone want to suggest anything for diagnostics?

Should I disconnect the VVEL solenoid to see if the sound disappears? If so, any pointers.

Anyone want to guess the repair costs if you have suspicions of what it is.

Edited by Pete_Repeat
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479491-engine-problems/
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Pete_Repeat said:

Anyone want to suggest anything for diagnostics?

Use a 500mm long piece of garden hose as a stethoscope to find the source of the noise. It's fairly easy to work out whether it's high or low, front or rear of engine.

 

1 hour ago, Pete_Repeat said:

Should I disconnect the VVEL solenoid to see if the sound disappears? If so, any pointers.

Well, yes, obviously. But be aware that if the VVEL mechanism is f**ked, it could still make noise whether it is activated by the solenoid or not. The solenoid just determines whether it sees oil pressure to make it rotate, or not.

 

1 hour ago, Pete_Repeat said:

Anyone want to guess the repair costs if you have suspicions of what it is.

Rod end? As in piston pin end? As little as $2k, to pull the engine out and do as little work as possible to replace just one noisy part.

A rod bearing.....same sort of money.

But really, if there is that much wear on one thing to make it noisy, it's fair to bet that there will be a lot of wear elsewhere and you would feel like a complete chump putting such an engine back together. In which case, the work could be just bottom end parts, or machining of the block also, or a full recon. Anywhere from that $2k absolute cheapest case up to maybe $6k. Could easily get more than that if you take the opportunity to do fun stuff. But I would suggest there is little to be gained from getting carried away in a V36.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479491-engine-problems/#findComment-7922246
Share on other sites

On 1/5/2020 at 8:16 AM, Pete_Repeat said:

Yep I am fearing the worst now. It seemed lower down, possibly bottom end. 

I'll use a hose to inspect more. 

 

It seems 2nd hand motors are about $4k plus minus with a quick search.

nah mean speak to Adrian @ All import wrecking at the GC.

They sell VQ37's for around 1.5-2k Depending on kms.

Had mates use them before. awesome pricing with warranty.

Also they ship australia wide.

Edited by DashyyPC
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479491-engine-problems/#findComment-7922347
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...