Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All 

I used to be active on this forum a while back as Ssshonky, but since then a lot has changed, had two kids etc etc.

To cut a long story short, I still have my C34 Stagea, it has seen a few k's by now and has blown a head gasket, so I am in the process of stripping it down.

The exhaust and inlet manifolds are off, and I have the motor at TDC, ( Checked the marks on the inlet and exhaust cam gears ) but I have realised that I should have cracked the nut on the crank before the car was torn apart to the stage that I can't start/turn it over. I have read a few posts that advise you can get to the crank via the sump, but my question is do I need to take the crank pulley off at all?

I can see a marking on the crank that will show me if I have moved it at all, so I could get it back to the original location.

The timing belt looks in fairly good condition and I am thinking that I should have enough slack to get the cam gears slipped off the belt without undoing the crank nut. Thoughts?

Am I doing it the 1/2 assed way? I just don't want to have to do more than required, but I also don't want to put the thing back together and have it go bang.

I don't have enough room to get a rattle gun in there or I would have done so :)

Thanks in advance! 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479502-returning-member-in-need-of-advice/
Share on other sites

Sounds like you can still crank it to undo the nut. Don't need inlet manifold or exhaust for that, it is better if the car doesn't start!
You will have pretty much no chance of doing the head without backing off the tensioner for the timing belt. And if you do manage to get the belt off the pulleys I can't see you getting it back on.

 

Hi Ben, thanks for the response, it's really appreciated

I was thinking that the motor would not crank over at all without all the bits and pieces like the crank angle sensor off etc, The cam covers are off and the coil packs etc are all out. I guess you are implying that the starter motor will still do it's thing yeh?

I was thinking the same thing about getting the belt back on without access to the tensioner but the motor only has to turn a bit to crack the nut 

 

The starter motor will do its thing no matter what! (aside from an aftermarket immobiliser doing its thing)

6 minutes ago, SSSHONKY_V_2 said:

Hi Ben, thanks for the response, it's really appreciated

I was thinking that the motor would not crank over at all without all the bits and pieces like the crank angle sensor off etc, The cam covers are off and the coil packs etc are all out. I guess you are implying that the starter motor will still do it's thing yeh?

I was thinking the same thing about getting the belt back on without access to the tensioner but the motor only has to turn a bit to crack the nut 

 

 

Yeah so I cranked it over and the nut cracked no problemo ... I was expecting  a much more dramatic result.

So now it's all off - I am just trying to find someone with a pulley puller I can use. 

I know people can be funny about loaning out tools , I go by the motto of

Never loan out your wife or your tools cause they will both come back ... ( you can work the rest out ) 

Thanks for the help, I should get more involved in these forums again , I miss the camaraderie 

20 minutes ago, SSSHONKY_V_2 said:

Yeah so I cranked it over and the nut cracked no problemo ... I was expecting  a much more dramatic result.

So now it's all off - I am just trying to find someone with a pulley puller I can use. 

I know people can be funny about loaning out tools , I go by the motto of

Never loan out your wife or your tools cause they will both come back ... ( you can work the rest out ) 

Thanks for the help, I should get more involved in these forums again , I miss the camaraderie 

Im hearing you they will come back expecting a better life I can't provide. .....

Where are you located?

  • Haha 1

Hi all 

@KiwiRS4T thanks for the link, made life so much easier

Ended up getting a kit from supercheap for not a lot of $$ and it came right off like a bride's nightie.

Making progress but just making sure it's methodical so I don't fck anything up 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheapest Jaycar one is only $65.
    • Probably best way would be using a proper dB / SPL meter lol Buy one and ship it from state to state to have a consistent test device lololol  
    • Not electric car good of course, it's still just a crappy old ICE
    • Yeah, but the good news is that can all be tuned out...the V37 has excellent throttle response now, and with the tiny factory turbos is pretty quick without lag
    • I did change bodyshops. The most recent place was very fast. I think the trick is to have smaller, simpler jobs. A front end repaint and some (extensive) sideskirt and fender stuff is a 'small cash' job for them. It was expensive but 'worth' it purely cause: 1) They did everything great 2) They did everything fast Get what you pay for maybe? Pictured: Very stock looking car from my very old phone. I did realise that oncoming traffic would probably be like "Oh look at this guy, commuting around in a GTR!" (until they see the side profile). This is the sad state of my fender liners and front fitment with my current stock GTR sized wheels (18x9 +30) This is how the rear sits with a 25mm spacer. I say 25mm because it's actually a 20mm spacer sitting on the studs which are ~30-31mm, and the wheels have a ~5mm cutout. So... this is very not safe to drive. This is the other side.. .with a 22mm spacer. Yes, the studs are ~27mm. Yes they're different both sides. I spent a fair amount of time measuring. This was the old pod setup behind the box in the past. Old vs New Pod she tells you not to worry about:   Turns out I measured this pod filter pretty damn accurately which I was chuffed about. I went for a ~3hr drive for 'testing' reasons up into Healseville hills. Believe it or not, the induction noise is the same between small and large pod. I guess it has more to do whether a pod is *present* or not, and the diameter of the pipe. It does sound very decent in cabin though (and extremely 'smooth') - Though behind the car the exhaust noise is nonexistent now. So uh, it's all for the driver. I'm confident it has to be quieter than @Dose Pipe Sutututu's car. I should test it. Is there a way to do it with an app or something we can both agree on? (we are both very old men now competing for quietest car) I've texted Trent at Chequered to book in to see some before/after. I can now twist the pod entirely out of the engine bay on the dyno to really rule in/out any intake restrictions. And/or remove the pipe entirely which I will probably do for testing reasons. The logs show *maybe* a difference in ambient KPA vs Intake KPA at wot. But I'm talking the difference to -3/4 before to maybe -2/3 now. The tune is not wildly out or even changed at all. The only takeaway I have is the car is on 17% ethanol as it's still got the fuel from the dyno in it. It's plausible that that tune would have resulted in the car erring on the side of being too rich (it was) and right now it seems to be bang on perfect or within -0.5% either side of target. I was tempted to take it to a Drag day to see what MPH it would trap (and tune the car) but then I wouldn't have a number and a pretty line. I may do that after I re-hit the dyno, purely to go to LS1tech and shout about how their dynos are all very inaccurate while my low HP car traps the same MPH as cars with the same setup in the US, who make 375RWKW (supposedly). It was safe to say Mr Mamo was not really happy with me posting the results yet. So I owe it to at least try the intake thing for my own sake and not besmirch people who want to buy a similar USA heads and cam setup and get disgusted that they make lower HP than simple bolt-ons which can be up to the "330rwkw+" kw region over there - Which here equates to about 270kw. (and runs the same 115-118mph)
×
×
  • Create New...