Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I have been scouring the forums for info on swapping an S15 dash into an R32 to no avail. My reasons for wanting to do this is because the R32 dash looks outdated and has bubbles, and my speedo cable is broken. Didn't really want to pay big bucks to replace something that is likely to break again so I want to go electronic speedo drive.

Yesterday I bit the bullet and purchased a complete S15 dash with all vents, trim, speedo cluster and aircon controller. I still need to source the center console and potentially some indicator and wiper stalks (I was thinking A31 for this given the similarity of chassis)

I got the 32 dash out in a jiffy and got the S15 dash in there, the 2 lower mounts line up with some encouragement and 1 of the upper windscreen mounts line up, however I think its sitting slightly to one side so I'll need to make up a small bracket to mount it properly. 

The blower fan duct doesn't perfectly line up so some air gets through but some modification will be required.

I was able to remove the airbag unit from the dash also and still retain the cover which snaps back into place.

I have tracked down wiring diagrams for the cluster and possibly the aircon unit also but I've never seen the aircon unit swapped most people seem to retain the factory unit. The wiring for the cluster looks fairly straight forward but the speed and rpm will likely be a challenge...and it didn't come with any plugs on the cluster.(might see if I can get some tiny space connectors but not hopeful)

I'll post more pics as I go.

Cheers

 

received_613288412559919.jpeg

received_211552070037509.jpeg

received_514473206165844.jpeg

received_1106374613032086.jpeg

received_634336497141808.jpeg

received_218767695834063.jpeg

Edited by wicked_two
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479844-s15-dash-into-r32/
Share on other sites

Convert to R33 turbo gearbox and an electronic speed sensor comes for free. Cannot tell you though whether the calibration will be correct against S15 speedo head. Other than getting the calibration right (regardless of what speed sensor you end up using), the S15 speedo head should then output the speed pulse to the ECU, same as either car (R32 or S15) does natively. Not too much hassle.

If you want to keep your existing gearbox, then you might have to look at whether you can get a speedo drive from an S13 or 14 to fit the 20 gearbox. I have no idea if they do or not. The small boxes are quite similar, but they are not exactly the same. You'll have to either research or just experiment.

Tacho is a whole 'nother issue. You will need to look at the R32 manual for the pulse rates from the ECU to run the tacho, and see if they are the same on the S15. They could well be - it's not like there needs to be a difference between 4 & 6 cylinder cars (like there was back in the bad old days of connecting the tacho directly to the coil and having the tacho have to divide by the firing rate, divisor being either 2 or 3). People have put RBs into S chassis cars many times and I haven't heard any whinging about getting the tacho working.

27 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Convert to R33 turbo gearbox and an electronic speed sensor comes for free. Cannot tell you though whether the calibration will be correct against S15 speedo head. Other than getting the calibration right (regardless of what speed sensor you end up using), the S15 speedo head should then output the speed pulse to the ECU, same as either car (R32 or S15) does natively. Not too much hassle.

If you want to keep your existing gearbox, then you might have to look at whether you can get a speedo drive from an S13 or 14 to fit the 20 gearbox. I have no idea if they do or not. The small boxes are quite similar, but they are not exactly the same. You'll have to either research or just experiment.

Tacho is a whole 'nother issue. You will need to look at the R32 manual for the pulse rates from the ECU to run the tacho, and see if they are the same on the S15. They could well be - it's not like there needs to be a difference between 4 & 6 cylinder cars (like there was back in the bad old days of connecting the tacho directly to the coil and having the tacho have to divide by the firing rate, divisor being either 2 or 3). People have put RBs into S chassis cars many times and I haven't heard any whinging about getting the tacho working.

Yeah so apparently I can use either an s14 or d21 navara speed sensor for the 20 box, I'll put it in see what it reads and go from there. When the 20 box shits itself I'll go to the 25 big box or maybe look at the 350z box I've seen people using.

To complicate things the car is running a 25det neo and has been going ok with no speed input to the ECU.

1 hour ago, wicked_two said:

To complicate things the car is running a 25det neo and has been going ok with no speed input to the ECU.

It stops the ECU from doing certain things like keeping the idle up in neutral at low vehicle speeds. It really should have a fault code though if the ECU is not seeing the speed signal. Are you sure that it does not have it? You should be aware that as long as the wiring from the dash down to the ECU plug is correct, the ECU should have the speed signal. The signal is generated in the R32 speedo head. Or are you saying it doesn't have the signal just since the cable broke?

  • 2 years later...

has there been any updates? i made the decision last night about doing the s15 dash conversion with my spare s15 parts i have laying around. took out the the dash and chucked in the s15 one to see how it looks like. 

 

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...