Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello guys!

I crashed my BNR34 last month and trying to fix it now but, there is no any stock of parts that is front side member (parts number 7510024U30 and 7510124U30 ). 
Fortunately, I could get front closing plates (parts number 75131-24U00 and 75132-05U05) but couldn’t get main side members.
So, I can’t fix my car anymore... I searched some information and found out that  Bcnr33, Enr34 are using same front side member. However, those of side members are sold out or discontinued. Does anybody have ideas for fix my car, could you help me please. (Sorry for my bad English)

thank you 

 

sincerely

 

Thank you for replying my topic!

I already asked and entrusting to fix my car for a panel beater that close to my house but, they said we don’t have any technique to repair bent metal. So I was wondering if there is another way to fix my car...

or buy a donor car such as ENR34 or something

 

2 hours ago, keebnr34 said:

...or buy a donor car such as ENR34 or something...

well you beat me to my suggestion since it's a 34 GTR ?

seriously....find a more traditional panel beater who has the old skills to make them, not a modern guy who just buys bits and glues them back on.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
14 hours ago, keebnr34 said:

they said we don’t have any technique to repair bent metal

That is the very definition of a panel beater. I cry and I wail for the state of manual skills present in the motor trades these days.

Take it somewhere else, to someone who has hammers and dollys and rolls and straightening benches.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
21 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

That is the very definition of a panel beater. I cry and I wail for the state of manual skills present in the motor trades these days.

Take it somewhere else, to someone who has hammers and dollys and rolls and straightening benches.

Yep !

Gone are those where you walk into a panel beaters and see an english wheel or for that matter find someone who knows how to panel beat an aluminium body panel ! There is a lost skill if I've ever seen one.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...