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Hello all, as mentioned in the title i'm from the United States. I've been working on this headache of an s-chassis for 4 years now and I finally decided to become a member of this forum today. I've come here to find information countless times and with the help of the search bar I typically find the answer i'm looking for. My s14 is equipped with a series 2 RB25 and matching gearbox out of an R33. It is a generic stock turbo setup with a front facing intake plenum and front mount intercooler. 13psi and a tune has allowed me to cross the 300hp threshold despite the stock injectors and 45v2 turbo with the fragile impeller wheel.

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here's a year old picture of my engine bay. The simple harness tuck under intake and fmic setup make it appear tidy but its really a bit messy for my liking. PCV blocked off and rocker covers routed to an oil catch can that dumps to atmosphere. To answer your question @Nouveua_Poor I live in Charlotte, but if you still lived here you would very rarely see this car on the road as it spends most of it's life in a storage unit. I have a tendency of eating steering racks and it's taking away from seat time?

rb25.jpg

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    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
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