Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good Morning Guys hope you all doing well.

Have not posting in a while been busy getting my build together.

Just a brief I took the rb30 dohc and used that as a build guideline.

Build a Rb30/25 with a series 2 sub.

Stock pistons 86.5mm as the sleeves were oval.

Drilled oil return galleries

1.5mm restrictor

Rods short peened with arp rod bolts

Rb25det oil pump

New water pump

Used my Rb25det head. Ported and flowed with Rb26 valvels, quarters , retainers, solid lifters and original cams cut 270. Just refreshed everything. 

Currently using rb30 gearbox but was grinding a little bit. 

So I opted to get a new gearbox seeing that everything is now being put back together.

I had a call from a guy that imports engine etc. He said he had a Rb25det fat boy box. So I obviously jumped at the opportunity to get the box based on reviews.

Got the box at home now and just checked fitment etc and started seeing some differences. 

My starter does not fit seems to be smaller. So I am worried I would have to change flywheel, clutch etc

The bolt pattern seems to line up with backing plate but not starter bolts

So it seems I would need to change the starter.

Upon some research on google this gearbox seems to be from a Nissan bakkie the zd30 diesels gearbox.

Basically my gripe is should I try and use this gearbox I probably need to change flywheel, starter and pressure plate. I don't like the Idea because i had my complete rotating assembly balanced. And with the covid pandemic not all engineering shops are operating.

What I am after and if I can get your input please guys is?

Has anyone ever used this gearbox or attempted to and what were you findings?

Looks similar to pictures I see of the fatboy box. Also found this code not sure if this is rb though FS5R30A.

Confused as I am doubting my decision as the guy assured.me it is a Rb25det fatboy gearbox and do not want to go through all the hassles as I wanted something straight fit that can  handle more power. My clutch seems to fit though.

I am attaching some pictures for review.

I would really appreciate your input guys as you have been doing this and have the experience.

Thanking you in advance Chev R based in South Africa 

 

20200507_183638.jpg

20200507_183757.jpg

20200507_183502.jpg

20200507_183513.jpg

20200507_183533.jpg

20200507_183603.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480335-rb3025-with-zd30-gearbox/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...