Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All, 

I have painted over years but with minimal knowledge so I am trying to up my knowledge.

 

here are my qestions:

paint procedure is as follow with points needed to be done on each stage, is that correct ?

1. Primer( if bare metal) or grit 1500 to create area for paint to stick if there is already paint. This will be 1 to 2 coat. one needs to wait 24 hours before going from primer to sanding to doing base coat.

2.Base coat, 2 to 3 coat. some say 4 to 5 coat which ?
Waiting around 15 mins after each coat.

3. top coat, I don't really understand what this is, what is the top layer?

4.laccuqer or clear coat , 3 to 4 coat. around 15 to 20 mins after each coat 

5.polish 

 

temperature is what is I have in garage which is around 15 to 20 degree.

I have painted a metalic car using above and paint is sort of matt , is there specific laquer to be used with metallic?

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480620-few-general-questions/
Share on other sites

After the first coat you give it a sand and hollows etc will show up  for you to fill. Top coat is the last coat. Laquer is for show cars...shows up every deficiency in the metal.  Requires many coats. Enamel is easier and more forgiving.

8 hours ago, drifter17a said:

When you say sand with 600?

 

would you fill hollow with bonding compound or next layer of paint

 

 

Depends on how deep the hollows - there is a special spray on stuff you can apply locally.  Have done some painting but I'm no expert ...have a look at the pros on YouTube.  Also you can get free advice from the auto paint shops.

On 17/06/2020 at 3:29 AM, drifter17a said:

All, 

I have painted over years but with minimal knowledge so I am trying to up my knowledge.

 

here are my qestions:

paint procedure is as follow with points needed to be done on each stage, is that correct ?

1. Primer( if bare metal) or grit 1500 to create area for paint to stick if there is already paint. This will be 1 to 2 coat. one needs to wait 24 hours before going from primer to sanding to doing base coat.

2.Base coat, 2 to 3 coat. some say 4 to 5 coat which ?
Waiting around 15 mins after each coat.

3. top coat, I don't really understand what this is, what is the top layer?

4.laccuqer or clear coat , 3 to 4 coat. around 15 to 20 mins after each coat 

5.polish 

 

temperature is what is I have in garage which is around 15 to 20 degree.

I have painted a metalic car using above and paint is sort of matt , is there specific laquer to be used with metallic?

 

 

hi mate,

some paints require a Ground Coat which is usually the metallic colours. just double check if you need this or not.

I wouldn't fill the minor scratches with bog.. just use primer filler or a spray putty.

just to make it clear. will you be using acrylic paint or twopac? I would not recommend using two pac paint in a garage as you need a proper booth. with acrylic you can get away spraying your car in your garage and depending on the coverage I would personally put on 3-5 coats and 3-4 coats of clear on top. 

Also, with acrylic paint, you need to wait for to paint to cure for couple of days, wet sand and and cut and polish after.

 

Thanks bud

 

would ground coat be same as the first wet laquer before base coat, seen that on youtube and didn't understand it
 

when you donbase coat, i was 15 mins between coats and after 30 mins following last coat do laquer or clear coat otherwise as I understand you need to sand it with 1000 to create but surface if doing it say next day

 

re paint types, i know mine is metallic but don’t really know different type of paint and whether mine is acrylic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...