Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Folks,

Been looking around for help with this but I’m not on social media now and info is slim out here in the Internet wilds.

I’ve got the subframe out of my R32 GTR and preparing to proactively replace the accumulator on the 4WD pump. Info out there suggests I need to depressurize the system before I try to remove the original. Is this as simple as having the ignition off (hasn't been started in weeks) or is there something else that needs to be done? Prefer not to screw something up or make a huge mess.

And further, would it be necessary to bleed the system after the canister is swapped?

Much appreciated.

Firstly, let me say, I've got no idea and never done this.

If the subframe is out of the car, then the hydraulic system is disconnected and therefore the only potential pressure in the system is inside the accumulator/nitrogen cannister that you are trying to replace. That cannister surely is sealed (or that seal has failed in some way which is why you are looking to replace it) so it is just a case of unscrewing the cannister.

Unfortunately the workshop manual says the attessa unit "cannot be disassembled" even though nissan sells the cannister as a part.

  • Like 1

The pump and lines are all still connected as it was I just bungee’d them up after I lowered the diff/subframe down. I read the same thing in the manual, it wasn’t much of a help. I feel like the pump probably depressurizes once the car is turned off (I hear sounds all the time post-shutdown) but I don’t want to assume and create a disaster.

41 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

Thanks! I poked around there but somehow missed that comment.

2 hours ago, accel junky said:

The pump and lines are all still connected as it was I just bungee’d them up after I lowered the diff/subframe down. I read the same thing in the manual, it wasn’t much of a help. I feel like the pump probably depressurizes once the car is turned off (I hear sounds all the time post-shutdown) but I don’t want to assume and create a disaster.

Is it a mechanical whirring sound you are hearing post shutdown?  Like some kind of pump running?  

 

21 hours ago, TXSquirrel said:

Is it a mechanical whirring sound you are hearing post shutdown?  Like some kind of pump running?  

 

I isolated that noise. It's like a foghorn sound and there is a little damper ahead of the fuel tank in the area where the 4wd pump normally sits.

I got the new accumulator on. Ultimately I got impatient and used a 3 prong oil filter adapter to turn it by the end cap but unfortunately that unthreaded from the base and discharged the nitrogen sending the canister flying. There was some fluid involved but not a ton. In the future I'd wait for the steelman socket to arrive and take it off by the base.

I attempted to bleed the system with the ignition on, plug under kick panel unplugged and whatnot but ultimately the pump never came on. Best I could tell it was just the noisy Nismo fuel pump priming when the ignition turned on. I'm guessing that because I have the subframe and diff dropped the grounding straps unhooked will keep the pump from running? Also the rear ABS sensors are unplugged (attached to diff currently). I hope either of those would be why the pump doesn't sound like it runs and that I did not mess up something. No prior 4WD dash light or known 4WD issues before dropping the subframe. I'd hate to put the subframe back in, hook up those grounding straps and then discover something on the 4WD pump is shot.

Edited by accel junky

I am having a weird sound coming from the back post shutdown as well.  It sounds a little different from both the fuel pump and attesa pump, and it could be described as fog horn.   I notice it usually happens after I drive extensively. 

But a couple weeks ago when the weather got pass 100°F and I was out in the front yard, I heard the sound just came on for no reason, even though car has been sitting in the garage for over a week.  Then I heard it again last week, also when weather was very hot and car hasn't been moved for some time.  

I am still trying to figure out what it is, but it's impossible to replicate as it just comes on randomly when (I presume) weather is hot.  My friend thinks it's because the fuel tank evap line is clogged and the noise is from fuel pump, but I'm not sure how likely that is with car just sitting there untouched.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...