TXSquirrel

I thought BK already answered your questions? The issue with ATS is that you need to do a pull to push conversion plus finding a dual mass flywheel, so I guess you good with both hurdles?

Any used stock turbos and ECU you can find are likely not in working condition even if the seller claims they are. So I say go with Link because you should be able to get a stock tune from Link. Then find a pair of used stock turbos and have them rebuild, but that may end up costing more than simply buying a pair of new Garrett -7. But either way you can recover some money by selling the Garrett -5 and mystery HKS.

Yes the Link is a good option no matter which turbo you end up. With the -5 it will be more involved than just injectors and pump. As others mentioned you also need new sensors to measure air flow, either MAP or MAF. There are many fuel pumps available, but figuring out how you want to setup the wiring to supply the pump is another level of headache. You can find plenty of discussion on that here.

The tuner who told you GT2860R has fast spool on low boost was referring to -7. Both -5 and -7 are GT2860R, but they are at the opposite end of capacity. If the HKS that came off have no shaft play nor oil leak, why not put them back on? A pair of HKS oil restrictor cost little. Perhaps send an email to HKS, if lucky they may be able to decipher the part number. If they are really the GT25 series, then they are the streetable turbo you are looking for.

There are 2 different GT2860R, do you know which one you have? Or a part number?

Yeah but how different can it be, maybe 100°C vs 105°C? This is a viscous fan we're talking about, I mean how accurate can that be to begin with?

If you dig deeper, you can find interchangeable Nissan OEM fan clutch from other models. Those will be much cheaper and still available from any local Nissan dealer. I have not looked into R34, but I know the older Nissan Pathfinder/Xterra/Frontier fan clutch fits R32 perfectly and runs about ~$170 USD.

Was the run with HKS done on the same engine as Garrett?

I have the older 68mm Tomei elbows and ported stock manifolds. I am thinking about getting the cast Tomei manifolds, any thoughts on those? Because so far I have seen inconsistent results.

Yes to do it properly for how much? Custom piping and split design intercooler, a few thousand dollars? And to gain how much extra, 20whp? Tell me straight up you will personally spend money and get that setup done. A divided charge pipe cost $200 and gain 10whp. Actually even if it doesn't gain anything they can have my $200. Oh wait, I did already, because there are worse ways to waste $200.

https://www.gtrusablog.com/2018/04/split-twin-turbo-pipes-by-alex.html https://www.gtrusablog.com/2013/01/divided-rb26-twin-turbo-pipe.html Cheap mod, doesn't hurt to try

It's on e85, maybe max out injector or fuel pump

With Vcam peak power is at 6k, so that will be a change of driving/shifting habits.

Perhaps you can reach out to this person?

Sounds like new aftermarket exhaust and a set of proper Michelins and it's all set.

I do find the price increase in Australia a little strange. I understand globally the price has gone nuts because the US is gobbling up these cars, but as far as I know there are extremely few cars in the US came from Australia. So the price increase there should not be driven by the anticipation of exporting to the US, but I think it contributed anyway. And inflation is a bitch.

Yeah I couldn't tell if anything was off based on that. Like others said, now it seems like it could be the transfer case on its way out. On a R32 the AWD fuse can be pulled to test, is there a way to disable AWD on a R33 to test?

Exactly, it's not a higher pressure oil pump, it's a higher volume oil pump.

I don't think what you are questioning have any relation to the oil situation around the restrictor. No, I have no issue for the past 5 years, lag, smoke, etc. I do feel the -9s are still laggier than I expected, even with the Tomei cams I have that come with very different centerline than factory cams. I have stock oil pump. A high pressure oil pump will not impact the oil restrictor. Mine is dyno tuned to 20psi, but I only run 15psi most of the time.

That's what the label on the box showed, unless GCG sent me something different inside. I had a shop doing the installation, and they told me I didn't need it. Not sure if it's a good idea to add a restrictor on top of another anyway, that may reduce or slow the oil flow too much.

I don't know the size of oil restrictor built in, but I have those same turbos for almost 5 years now without another secondary oil restrictor, so far all is still good.

I guess the R32 reservoir didn't fit on the R35 cylinder? That would have saved the trouble to rewire fluid level sensor. And yes the LHD cylinder has ports on other side, so no fitting would be needed.

I used Redline before, but it's common fluid and if you Google you can find a dozen different brands out there, so just get whatever is available local to you.

I don't think that's your issue. If the problem is with a worn steering rack, you will get vibration or clunking noise from turning, and regardless whether torque is sent to the front or not as you described. If you didn't have someone else grabbing the steering wheel as you shook the tie rod like in the video, there would always be a bit of play. Or could be that your steering rack bushing is very worn, either way that should not be the cause based on what you initially described. Like others mentioned, it could be the plates in your transfer case. A small bottle of friction modifier costs $10, and it only needs an ounce of this stuff per quart, it's a cheap way to find out if the issue is with the plates in your transfer case or front diff.

Just take a picture and post it here, I think you will get a couple responses.