TXSquirrel

Ahh I see it, should make this job very convenient. Is this new? I was searching for a pre-made bracket like this a year ago but didn't find any.

I would say it depends on both spoke face and offset, and the Enkei RS05RR is a good example. The 18x10 +22mm would not clear stock R32 caliper, however both 18x9.5 +22mm and 18x10.5 +15mm would. I emailed Enkei Japan directly and that's the response I got. The 9.5 is M face and 10/10.5 are R face.

If you are doing retrofit yourself, expect about $400-$500 USD for equipment and various materials. To retain factory adjustment, you will need to make a bracket similar to this or cut up your factory projector. A few shops do offer retrofit service if you send over the headlights, but expect to pay double. If you are on a tight budget, then at least try upgrading factory lens like I posted. You can't just throw in a HID kit because factory lens is not designed for it, and the light would go everywhere except where you want it to. So at the very minimum you still need to change the lens if you are not doing a complete retrofit.

I thought I posted a follow up to the light flare, but apparently I forgot. I added a piece of straight metal to cover up the light deflector/bracket thing designed to produce a RHD pattern, and it cured the flare.

If you got time and want to save budget, you can take apart the headlights and only upgrade the lenses. You will see improvement even running on your old halogen bulbs. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479162-trying-on-lenses-with-r32-projector/

If you are in the States, that is about half the market price. So you will either get a great bargain or get scammed. How disposable is the $5k you have ready on hand?

This may be a long shot, but check the metal contact on the connector and make sure it's clean. The lack of response could just be the metal not getting good contact.

Just get a Greddy Informeter and get their adapter harness for pre-OBD Nissan consult. It plugs right into the consult port and gives you all the telemetries you need in unit you prefer, including MPH and coolant temp in °F.

I always wonder how could R32 run 10.5" wide wheels. I have 17x9 +22 right now and it's already lined right up to the fender in the rear. Front strangely still has space though.

I just went through this with mine as well. You only need new ball joints, inner rods, and boot kits. The outer rod is a simple piece of metal with threads, don't need to be replaced. Glad I took mine to a shop to get done though, that ball joint was an absolute PITA.

Hi folks, would you know what size wheel is on Garage Yoshida's shop car? More specifically the width. I look up BBS' lineup and that looks to be their RI-A wheel, either 18x9.5 +22 or 18x10.5 +18. I first thought it must be the 9.5" because it's on R32, but looking at the front wheel to fender gap I am not so sure. Rolling shot starts at 0:26 mark.

Yes I agree, as that is both logical and sensible. And to be honest this still doesn't solve the RHD vs LHD beam pattern issue for me that any retrofit projector can. I guess the biggest benefit here is retaining full range of factory adjustment, but how much of that is really needed anyway? I would like to mention the Morimoto Q5-R lens also fits like a glove compared to others, and the whole lens-changing process is quick and hassle free, no cutting or drilling or needing fancy bracket made. Just 15 minutes off with the old and on with the new.

Here is what the light looks like with HID. The focus is dead on and the cut line is super clean. Not bad by just changing a $15 lens and still able to retain complete factory adjustment. I am doing this experiment with money out of my own pocket and sharing the result. If you think the result is helpful or just "good to know," then that's my goal because I am really doing this out of curiosity. If you think this pointless, then that's good for you too because now you don't ever have to wonder what the outcome would be if some stubborn guy wants to try some pointless experiment with a 30 year old headlight.

But the exhaust is on the "right" side so you can't say it's on the wrong side...

Again I agree factory projector is crap and any cheap Morimoto projector will perform much better, but that's not the point here. If you just want something that's better and treating that as the absolute, then we should see only 2JZ in these cars shouldn't we? (gasp!)

I thought you know my habits by now. I always try to keep everything as original as I can!

Got my hands on a R32 projector from a broken headlight, so I bought some spare lenses with different height to play with. I am keeping my factory setup anyways but just curious if modern lens can improve anything compared to the 30 year old one. I wasn't expecting much out of this experiment, but one did result in a nice surprise. Using a 6V lantern battery, these are the results. Factory lens: about 30 or 31mm ZKW-R: 22.5mm FX-R: 24mm Q5-R: 28mm Here is what the Q5-R looks like installed. Here is comparing Q5-R with cheap halogen H3C bulb to a cheap aftermarket HID installed in a Saturn Sky. Very good cut line with the Q5-R lens. Now I will see if I can find someone with H3C sized HID to try on.

I agree it's quite possibly not the fuel. But wiring issue is something fairly easy to eliminate so he can move on to the next possible cause. That's all I'm suggesting. Coincidentally my car also couldn't take any more timing. I recall 17 was the most my tuner could push at the top. And coincidentally my tuner also said it could be the cooler and coils, so I bought a Plazmaman and new Splitfire. A couple months later I went back to get the Plazmaman installed and a retune, but as my tuner tried to set another baseline we saw my car had lost a lot of power. AFR looked fine but duty cycle was showing 108% theoretical pulse on Nistune, so he hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and we both saw it would go up to 62 psi but as RPM climbing pass 5000 it would drop to 50 psi. After sorting out the fuel some months later, on went the Plazmaman and Splitfire and timing came back, so did power. However I honestly can't say what was the true cause, coils, fuel, or cooler. Maybe the Plazmaman and Splitfire were completely unnecessary, and the issue with timing first time around was really the wiring going half way out. Or maybe it really was the OEM cooler and coils, but they were replaced together so I would never know.

Right, my AFR was fine too but injectors were completely maxed out. OP's 800cc injectors seem big enough, but if fuel pressure were at say 45psi they could still be maxed out.

Yeah 18x9.5 +15 will be the one. Enkei sells aluminum 75mm to 66.1mm hub rings, so that isn't an issue. On Enkei's promo they seem quite proud of those dimples, saying it's a lesson learned from their real racing wheels used in Super GT. https://motor-fan.jp/article/10010782 Already got a quote back from RHDJapan, ¥36,886 each, before the 6% rim discount they would offer from time to time.

Hi folks, I would like to find out what are your opinions on the new Enkei GTC02. Will this be a good style for R32? Seems well priced, cheaper than equivalent sized RS05RR that I initially wanted but decided against. http://www.enkei.co.jp/wheels/racing/gtc02/index.php

I think this style of stripes fits R32 better.

I'm only suggesting the fuel data should be look at if the pump is not directly wired to chassis for ground and battery for positive. When I was only getting 12V at the pump, the most fuel pressure I got was 51psi with 570cc injector. Would be even lower if injectors were bigger. After directly wiring positive I got 12.8V, and after also directly wiring negative I got 13.8V. Surprisingly all I need was 12.8V and fuel pressure was back to normal. But then looking at the fuel flow curves for various pumps there really is no surprise, just half a volt would make a huge difference.

The tuner figured out OP needs a cooler and valve springs. I think it's pretty obvious those two items are getting the no confidence vote here.

How is your fuel pump wired? And how is the A/F ratio and injector duty cycle? I am asking because I had an episode with my pump not getting enough voltage. The A/F ratio was fine but injector duty cycle was maxed out prematurely, and I lost about a good 40kw.