TXSquirrel

I think you can still buy those new from Amayama https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2604208u05 https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2609208u05

I'm pushing about 295kw at 17.5psi with Garrett -9s and Tomei cams. Higher than 17.5psi it would start to get detonations, and my tuner said I need a better aftermarket intercooler. Plazmaman 76mm is rated at 950hp according to their website, is that too big for what I need? And perhaps would create unnecessary lag? From what I read -9s should be able to to do 20psi, and that's all I'm trying to achieve.

Hello, curious if anyone tried Cusco's front license plate offset bracket for R32. I can't find any good picture of it mounted... https://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-front-license-plate-offset-mount-bnr32.html

Very nice picture! I will likely go for 17x9 +12, so I can get more profile on the tires. Where I live the roads are just terrible and full of potholes. Now if I can decide between matte black and matte silver...

Hi guys, what are you thoughts on spider web style wheels on R32? I know they are popular with GT86, EVO, or STi. My R32 has the "rarest" KH2 gunmetal, and I'm considering the "matte dark gunmetallic" Enkei NT03RR in 17x9 +15mm. My friends hate the idea, they all think spider web style wheels don't work on R32. So what do you guys think? http://www.enkei.co.jp/wheels/racingrevolution/nt03rr/index.php

I want to stay period correct and stay with regular color or 3200k halogen. I know HID has 3800k that looks really close to halogen, but I still prefer the look of halogen. I run aftermarket HID in my other cars, but for my R32 I want to stay halogen. I read the retrofit posted here using FX-R, which is another good choice. But I have not seen pictures or results of FX-R with halogen, I will stay with the MD2S with proven pictures. Also the FX-R is an enclosed housing, so I am not sure how well it can deal with the heat from halogen as compared to the open housing of MD2S. The OP said he used 2 adapters each bulb, but looking at the fitted picture I am not sure I see two. And I guess he removed the actual bulb, slide over an adapter, then clamp it back? And then he mentioned spring and o-ring which confuses me even more.

Holy cow that is some amazing output with H1 halogen! I see the OP uses Morimoto MD2S 4.0, but I have difficulty understanding how he made the adapter or washer work. Can you please explain? Also, which Toyota H11 projector do you have, out of which car model? So yeah I asked TRS today and they told me no go with H1 halogen in mini H1. But seeing how great the result is with H1 halogen in MD2S, not sure there are better options. Just need to figure out how to mount the MD2S, especially figuring out how to mount it flush.

Thanks for the info! Actually I want to run halogen instead of HID, and for that I think the only option is to run H1 halogen in the Morimoto globe. I know for a period of time many vehicles on the market came standard with projector globe and halogen, then HID as optional extra. My friend's Murano was like that with H11 bulb. Those vehicles will be my focal point of search.

I am currently looking at different options to retrofit R32 headlight with Morimoto projector globe. Has anyone tried using halogen bulb instead of HID with those globes? I have read write-ups posted here using Morimoto mini H1 and FX-R, has anyone tried other Morimoto globes or globes from other brands or other vehicles? Thanks in advance!

That looks quite a dramatic jump by advancing just a few degrees on the intake...

My R32 just got done tuning with Nistune using R35 AFM as well. But since I'm running factory size tube (65mm) and the existing VQ map doesn't go below 3", my tuner spent an hour just re-mapping the VQ map. After he was done he was so impressed with R35 AFM that he ordered new R35 AFM for his personal R32.

Oh and I have Tomei Poncam Type A, which is 260 IN 252 EX. That could also be another reason for knock.

That is fresh off the dyno, and the knock happens at the top of 1st and 2nd gear. Still has plenty of injector to go, and we fill tank with fresh petrol just to be sure, still knocking. Plugs are iridium heat range 7 gap to 0.036" / 0.9mm. We could get 415whp / 310kw consistently with no knock at all at 17.5 psi, but not more. I would guess room temperature was about 85F / 30C, so whatever that gets turned into with fans blowing. Both coolant and oil temp was around 190F / 88C. Conclusion is charged air getting too hot with factory intercooler. I think that's pretty good power at 17.5 psi, but kind of wish it could go to 20 psi. Curve is identical to factory setup until 4000 rpm, so that tells me nothing major has gone wrong. What's -9s optimum range anyways...? I'm thinking Plazmaman, but I'm not sure if that's too big for -9s at 76mm thick. Greddy's is 70mm thick and HPI is 72mm.

Ahh I see, so the limit is the head bolts and not the gasket. My -9s are maxing out at 17.5 psi, more than that it's getting knocks because air is too hot. So if the 28 years old head bolts can take 350kw, I will invest in a good intercooler and see if I can push to 20 psi.

Not completely related but I don't want to start a new post... How much power or psi can RB26 factory head gasket typically handle? I am trying to determine how far I should push my current setup...

Thank you! Many curves there to give me good data points! Except the curves in kw show kph at the bottom instead of rpm, and I'm incapable of converting that even assuming it's pulled on 4th gear.

R32 GTR Stock Dyno Curve Are there dyno curves available for stock R32 GTR? I am curious what stock setup makes at 4000 and 5000 rpm, or even at 3000 rpm if that's possible.

OP is in Canada and they began importing 10 years before US. But I think most people are surprised by how little of a history comes with each imported car, a car could have been driven to the ground but claimed to be a grade 3.5 auction car. And then they are surprised by how old these cars actually are, freshly arrived at dock and bam everything broke after a week. Mine came from UK and fully serviced including timing belt before being exported. After I got my car I decided to have timing belt replaced anyway because for some reason they didn't replace water pump. And then behold the f*ckery, open the timing cover to see a brand new timing belt with rusted factory tensioner pulley. You will be surprised how many sh*t cars we get because of shady exporters/importers/middle men.

I have met people who went from loving their cars to hating just because they picked the wrong clutch kit. With engine out it takes 30 minutes to change the clutch, so invest in a proper clutch kit and in your case, a kit with OEM like pressure plate, and you may just love driving her again even in bad daily traffic. https://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-sports-clutch-kit-copper-mix-bnr32-r33.html

Agree with you on the turbo timer. But without upgrading the crank, any aftermarket oil pump is pointless, the "hardened" gear will still crack. Just drive like an old man, which I'm there already anyways.

With these cars the engine has got to come out at some point in time to get major maintenance done. I also went mostly with OEM parts, except the silicone coolant hoses at the back of block. Those are impossible to get to with engine in, so consider replacing them. Also consider replacing the paper throttle body gaskets from factory, they are known to blow out. I got metal Tomei ones, and I also splurged and had the plenum powder coated while at it.

Any update on the oil issue? My R32 just got dropped off at the tuner after some bolt-ons. She's a 1990 and still has factory head gasket and oil pump, and of course the short nose crank. I have a new oil pressure sender installed, and I will ask the tuner to keep a close eye on the oil pressure. Hopefully she will survive the dyno.

Yeah I'm not sure what changes were made to Series 2, but 1991 definitely has the short nose. Which may partially explain why your oil pump went boom boom.

What year is your R32? If yours still has the short nose crank, may as well have the engine pulled and get that upgraded.

the oil pressure sender is known to go bad, luckily it is an inexpensive fix, same unit as 300ZX and should be readily available at local auto parts store. so try that first before jumping to the conclusion that oil pump is bad.